*update with a no drill option to this modification for Anet A8 printers:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170756

Also check out the LED mounts you can print and put on your threaded rod:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179195

The budget 3D printers are great; especially when upgraded with primarily 3D printed parts that brace and make the printer more stable. The braces that go directly on the frame are great. I pretty much have a version of almost every one on my printer and I was still not getting great prints until I put these braces on. However, what's most helpful is the threaded rod type braces like this collection provides to help triangulate the upper structure.

This is the ultimate frame brace for many different 3D printers. For the Anet A8 it adds five major threaded rod braces without interfering with modifications most of our printers already have installed. Four of theses braces triangulate the frame down to the surface of your choice. I use a 21 inch X 21 inch board that is 3/4 of an inch thick that I bonded a layer of real carbon fiber on and epoxied. For most other printers you can benefit from at least the front two braces by simply printing two upper bracket mounts and two lower base mounts.

There are several good designs using threaded rod; however they either lack in the strength at the mounting point or at the connection to the printer. The weaker mounts limit the amount of tension you can dial in which limits the stability you can achieve. They design their mounts strong as they can without requiring you to drill holes to mount the braces.

The question is: why make a threaded rod modification using metal rods only to attach them to your printer with a couple tiny bolts over 4x smaller than the rod?

With that said, this modification does require you to drill small holes for some M3 bolts to go through your frame at the empty areas to the left and right of the display. All parts in this collection are either new or heavily redesigned for increased strength and support so please use the thing files under the "thing files" tab here. Credit is given at the bottom of this note for the design inspiration.

You can have already printed and installed almost every stabilizing modification there is and still use this mod. Much of these braces are universal for other printers that have a upper structure to allow the mounting of a bracket.

You will need:
X5 threaded rods of 5/16 inch or M8 size (either will work) that are 24 inches/ 610mm long (they will all be cut down a about 5 inches or so each with a hack saw to the length you need.)
X4 large 1inch wide (or so) washers to go on the 5/16 or M8 upper brace rod. Smaller washers or none will due for this "upper brace"
X14 3/4 inch wide (or so) washers to go on the rods at various places
X4 bolts of 5/16 inch and 1&1/4 long or M8 bolts about 32 mm long
X4 bolts of 1/4 inch and 1 inch long or M6 about 25mm long
(Best is if you have assortment of bolts and nuts so you can pick what works for you)
X18 nuts of 5/16 inch or M8 nuts
X6 nuts of 1/4 inch or M6 nuts
X16 small wood screws to secure mounts to the table I used "#6 by 3/4 inch long"
X2 small 1 inch long bolt and thread to hold upper bracket to it's topmount block
X8 small bolts of 3/32 size or similar with nuts to hold upper brackets to top front of printer or use M3 size and 30mm long if you have these braces by LeoN. Highly recommend them: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1872162

Directions for printing:
X4 "topbracebushings" for upper rod brace mod behind your display
X4 "Base2"
X4 "Basepart2" these base parts mount to your surface your printer rests on
X1 "topleftmount"
X1 "toprightmount" these top mounts go on each side of the upper brace rod after it's installed
X2 "topmountblock"
X2 "upper Bracket" the last two parts here are connected with the small 1 inch long bolts and connect the two front rods to your printer to the left and right of the display
(for a no drill option print these instead of two "upper Brackets" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170756)

Directions for installation:
1.) Take one of the five threaded rods that are 24 inches long. This will be used for an upper rod brace. For measuring purposes pass it through the two large holes at the top of the printer in the back behind the display screen.
2.) Mark the rod at what point you'd like to cut it off. Leave a couple inches extending past each hole on both sides so supports can be attached. I cut mine at the 18.5 inch mark.
3.) cut this upper rod brace to the length.
4.) install the rod as pictured above with a pair of bushings on either side of both holes with the spacer rim inside the hole and optional metal washers at the outside of each (4 total) and then a nut securing each printed bushing to the holes (4 total) and tighten snug with a wrench. Careful not to over tighten and accidentally crack the acrylic.
5.) slide the left and right top mount printed blocks onto this upper rod brace you just installed as pictured. The printed parts should slide up and down the rods freely to ease install. If you find they only fit by threading them on (rare), then thread it in slightly and pull. Keep doing this further and further to essentially file out the holes with your threaded rod. Or you can use a file so the rods slide through the parts as intended. Note the nut that goes inside each of the topleft and topright mounts as pictured.
6.) take a rod for each side and measure and cut it to length you'd like given the angle the rod is going to your base mount. Mine had to take a steep angle because the board my printer is on is only 21 inches wide. I cut my side rods to 16 inches. You may have yours longer so yours can be mounted further out.
7.) Install with four small wood screws each the "Base2" braces to the surface for your side supports with the Basepart2 installed on each as pictured with one of the bolts and nuts. Do this only for the two side braces for now.
8.) place a nut inside each top mount that is connected to the upper rod brace and then screw in the cut down rod high as necessary to then screw the rod downward to go through the lower bracepart2 hole. (some may find it easier to secure the lower mount after the rod is installed).
9.) Place the washer and nuts in these side braces and this should complete the upper brace mod and the two side brace mods.
10.) hold up and mark and drill four small holes each for the two upper mounts that go on the front of the printer next to both sides of the display. It's best if you pre assemble the front rod and assemblies so you can decide where you need to secure each of the mounts.
11.) After drilling the four top holes to secure your top mount then secure them with the M3 30mm long bolts.
12.) Secure the lower mounts of "Base2" and it's "basepart2" and finish bolting the rods and then you're done.

I highly recommend you have these braces installed if you haven't already:

Anet A8 Brackets to Reduce X-Axis Motion by Leo_N
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1872162

JAG: A8 Rear Brace
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336471

JAG: A8 Front Brace
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2291581

Hulk Brace by Leo_N
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189694

Inspiration Credit:
The mounting pad to your table or board your printer sits on:
"BQ Prusa I3 Hephestos Frame stabilizer" by filch20049
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409312 uses M10 rod

The "Anet A8 Frame Brace X-Axis Reinforcement" by Phonogramm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2722872 uses M8 rod

The bracing to the 3D printer face
based off "Frame support for Tevo Tarantula" by kisolre
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656796 uses M6 rod