Hello, this is for retrofitting an oil lamp (paraffin or kerosine lamp) with an LED ring to make a nice light without burning something.

STL, STEP, Fusion-Files and Arduino-Code included. But it will probably not fit your specific lamp. Please check and adjust.

Electronic parts used:

• DigiSpark Microcontroller-Board (compatible with Arduino IDE)
• 2x 18650 Li-Ion batteries
• LED-ring with 12 LEDs (neopixel WS2812 compatible)
• Step-Up converter MT3608 (to step up the ~3-4V from the batteries to 5V for the LEDs and DigiSpark)
• Charging board for the batteries TP4056 (please check that you have the same, there are several with different sizes available)

Please check the STP/Fusion file on how to assemble the parts. All the parts on top should be glued in. Please check that you use the correct order of assembly, so that you get the boards still inside. The top cutout is a bit too small to push the converter through later.

The Digispark is put in this way so it is relatively easy to remove and reprogram to change colors or add a timer.
Because of the way the Digispark is working, the light will turn on about 5secs after turning on the switch (it is waiting for USB input in case of reprogramming).

Contact to the batteries is made with wire wound (2x) through the provided holes. The two batteries should be connected in parallel. Plus to the top, minus the bottom, because of the geometry of the parts.
Please check that both batteries have the same voltage before connecting them in parallel! Otherwise one will charge the other with very high current, which can damage them or get very hot!
This would also work with one battery only, I added two to increase the runtime.

Press the bottom round contact parts into the holes. Then use the snap-on part to hole them in place. You have to cut a little slot where the two circles meet, so they can be pushed together by the snap-on part.
Please make sure that both batteries are in contact with the contacts all the time! If for some reason one is not in contact, you will not notice, because the other will still provide enough voltage. If later then one is empty and the other still full and the contact works again, there is again the risk of charing one battery from the other with very high current!.

Wire the switch between the charging board and the converter board. I made a hole in the top part of the lamp for the switch. Be very careful when drilling the hole in the sheet metal. It will probably bent a lot (it did for me). Starting with a small drill should help. Maybe pressing the hole or using pliers would work better.

The LED ring is also just glued in place.

The hole assembly is put in from below into the empty tube of the lamp. You have to move the glas part out of the way for that. The assembly is only hold in the lamp by friction. So please doublecheck that your lamp has the same inner diameter.

The 3D of the two PCBs are from GrabCad, thanks to the authors.

Printed with PLA, 0,2mm layer height. No supports needed!