Attribution

Original Files, ZS-F1 by Zoroseerus

Summary

It is recommended to use SLS or MJF for the most durable and high quality prints

This shell aims to recreate the shape of the Ultralight 2 and corresponding models by Finalmouse whilst also being wireless and lightweight (for the parts used) using the Logitech G305 PCB and Screws.

I have tweaked a few things from Zoroseerus' original to adapt the design to new standards as I wanted to use a spare G305 to I had lying around to print this shape without being constrained to the original's heavier design as well as making it easier to print on a SLA printer (Printed and tested using Siraya Tech Blu Clear V2¹).

The main changes I have made to the original is the addition of a 8.6mm (may vary depending on shrinkage) USB-C port hole as well as removing and holing out the original support bracket for the battery to greatly reduce the weight of the shell.

¹Density 1.11-1.15g/cm³, rated at <6% Shrinkage

Build Info

These are the weights of each item printed, although keep in mind that my resin has a high density and will be heavier than most other 3D printing materials. If you are printing in SLA you are also required to purchase some kind of 'tough' blend to allow screws to tap which is why it is recommended to print in MJF or SLS for the superior tensile strength whilst being lighter.

For this shell you will need quite a few items to make it work. I have listed below all the basic items needed other than a 3D printer to print the parts.

Products Needed:

• Logitech G305
• 2-Pin Lithium Battery
• USB-C Extender
• TP4056 Charging Module

Tools Needed:

• Soldering Iron
• Screwdriver
• Wire Cutter

Alternatively, any kind of Enncoo modkit alternative will work to replace the battery, extender and charging module whilst eliminating the need to solder.

Build Guide

I have listed a simple build guide below. If you need further help feel free to comment or email me and I will respond as soon as possible.

1. Disassemble the G305. If you are in need of help you can find many guides online. Make sure not to damage any of the cables and to keep the screws as you will need them later.

2. Prepare the 3D printed parts. This step is pretty self-explanatory. Have your parts ready to be assembled.

3. Assemble the charging interface. If you are using the Enncoo modkit skip this step as the modkit acts as a solution for this.

4. Plug in the charging kit to the PCB and make sure it works. Once you put everything together you want to make sure there's nothing wrong.

5. Assemble the shell and PCB as normal. A guide can be found here

Intructions for the charging interface:

• Use wire cutters to cut the ends of the original cable that wires to the AA battery.

• Next remove the outer parts of the USB-C extender exposing the inside.

• Remove the other side of the extender and use the wire cutters to expose the copper.

• Ready a soldering iron and desolder all cables from the extender except for 'G' and 'V'.

• Solder the 'G' Cable to the negative pad on the front of the charging module and likewise for 'V' on the positive pad.

• Solder the wires on the lithium battery to the opposite end of the module on the inner pads with the red cable on the positive side and black on negative.

• Finally, solder the ends of the original cable for the AA battery to the charging module with the same colors matching with the battery on the opposite side from the extender.

If you have any queries or questions feel free to ask!