These are parts that improve using a Waveshare 8inch 1280×800 IPS display to replace the stock DMD in a PC-modded Arcade1up pinball machine. This display is much higher resolution than the stock one for using with Full DMD artwork and PUPPacks, and has much better brightness, contrast, and colors than the stock display.

The display generally fits well, but isn't flush mount like the stock one is, so this new frame is needed with a recess to fit well over the display and hide the edge and screw holes of the wood. I printed in black PLA face down on a textured PEI sheet which gave it a great satin texture that goes well with the panel of the cabinet this goes in (with the original acrylic removed).

This also includes a thin mounting sheet for the back of the display to secure it to the cabinet on the inside. I used white PETG for this part, and while the screw holes are symmetrical in the design, one didn't line up perfectly with the hole in my cabinet which might just be something with my individual cabinet, so I left the design alone. The flexibility of the thin PETG allowed me to screw it in anyway.

I've included the OpenSCAD files here in case someone needs to modify anything for their cabinet or use these as starting points for different model displays. You could also increase the thickness of the back mounting bracket to something like 2mm if you have longer screws than what came with the display for connecting to the display itself, but I didn't.

Important Note 1: To use this display with the Arcade1up cabinet, you'll need a right angle HDMI adapter to have clearance to plug in the cable.

Important Note 2: You will need to run USB-C to the display for power. You also should not plan to use the HDMI audio out of it. While it does support it, it doesn't work very well, on mine the Left and Right channels even appear reversed, and it either doesn't amplify the audio at all like the stock DMD did, or it's significantly weaker. You should remove the bolts connecting the entire backglass box to the cabinet, as well as panel it bolts into under it and so that you can feed the USB cable and a 3.5mm audio cable up from inside the cabinet, which you can connect to your PC inside it. This is a tricky balancing act when not disconnecting the other cables, you should have a second person hold the backglass box to avoid having it fall on your playfield or something else terrible.

Important Note 3: You'll also need a small amplifier like this one. If you're using the stock speakers you'll need to desolder the wires from them, and solder on new wires to connect to the amp as they're wired to share a common ground which at least this amp does not support, it needs separate -/+ wires to each speaker to work correctly.