First I shoot USPSA, never shot IPSC so I dont know their specific rules.

I have mine set up for my G34 but it would work with any full size Glock, the barrel height is adjustable.

Main reason for the remix was the two pieces for the rod were different diameters in the original, I already went down the road of a 10MM aluminum rod so I fixed the diameter of the piece that holds it to the belt.

THIS IS FOR A 10MM ROD...here is where I got mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NM9YWND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut my rod at 100MM, still has room to slide if needed but with USPSA there are rules on gun position in the holster and at 100MM it meets the rules and doesn't stick out of the bottom.

The other thing I did was anodized the aluminum rod...actually quite easy and cheap if you have a car battery charger...plenty of help through google, I used RIT Navy Blue clothing dye which you can get at walmart for less than $4...I used way too much so it looks black!

And lastly I used PETG-CF filament, this stuff is awesome and my first experience, but wow is it strong! You will have to get a steel nozzle for your printer...here is a link to the filament:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CC7RH6M3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

As for assembly, I went to my local ACE and will most likely order some better screws...followed mostly what was in the original but not all the screws were listed here is a summary:

2 M3X12 and nuts for top of belt slide
1 M5X40 and nut for rod holder to belt slide
4 M3X6 not sure what the plan was for the rod to secure to the belt loop holder, but I drilled 2 3mm holes through the rod (made for a great place to hold the wire for anodizing) and used 2 screws from each side to secure it
1 M4X20 and nut for the tension adjustment on the rod holster holder
1 M5X50 and nut to secure the rod holder to the holster
1 M3X16 to secure the lock and trigger slide
1 #6 X 1/2" (had them already) to secure the barrel support to the holster

Assembly should be straight forward, I didn't have to sand anything and the draw is smooth. Just remember when you holster its not straight down like a normal holster, put your barrel on the pin first and then lock the Glock into the holster in a front to back motion.