Hi guys,

If Thingiverse is as slow for you as it is for me, consider looking for your 3D parts at Cults 3D:
https://cults3d.com/en/users/WrenchToDrive/creations

Check it out running a stupid fast brushless setup and big offroad tires: https://youtu.be/l7sIl52AzcU

Update 07/20: Added the front knuckle and balls. I got this working really well but it took a lot of fiddling around with the ball. I'm using the half ball and using gel super glue to bond. The reason is that I couldn't get the ball to print with good enough quality in one piece. I thread one half onto a screw and then put a little gel super glue around the edge of the surface and then screw the other half into place (it takes some fiddling, but once you figure it out, it works great). Sand or file the seam gently to ensure smoothness. Clear the slot with a hobby knife. Use the support that prints with the knuckle as a pressing surface and you can use an adjustable wrench to squeeze the ball (greased) in. I got this working well enough that there is very little play (much less than my used and abused stock one). If the ball is loose or tight, you can scale the ball a bit or increase flow. Durability is still a question mark, but I ran my old 3D printed back knuckle for a long time and didn't break it. If you read this far, you deserve to know the secret of the half ball: it is slightly more than half a ball. There was consistently about 0.5-1mm of play and the ball looked slightly not round, so I made the half ball a little more than half, and viola - perfect fit. Your mileage may vary, but fear not, it took me a while to get this working too. TT-02 steering mode coming soon...

Update: Added the front upper and lower arms. The shock mount points are not the same as stock because I wanted to keep the arm flat for printing. I figure if you want perfect, you'll buy them, right? Fit is good.

Update: the shock mount is pretty weak, guys. I've been running a rally configuration with big tires (90mm) and the car works great but I broke the shock mount twice. The crashes weren't nothing but I would consider that part too weak when made of PLA (Might work for touring if you never roll the car). The other parts haven't had any breakage (nor has the rest of the car).

Rear suspension for the Kyosho Fazer MK2. The fit is pretty dang good if I do say so myself. You may need to do a little clean out with a drill because I had the exact same hole size, exact same print settings come out a little too tight one one and perfect on the other. If anything, the printed side on mine is tighter than the stock side (meaning no slop).

Notes:

• My bearings fit dang near perfect so if yours don't, check your printed settings and maybe turn up the flow 5-10%. V1 was a hair loose and this version works perfectly for me.
• I used a screw to hold in the outer pin on the lower arm because the stock setup is kinda hard to duplicate (if not impossible). The hole is M3 and you'll want about as short as you can get (the one I used is too long so the pin can slide out a millimeter or so.
• The upper arm is may need a little massaging.
• All parts are a little beefy because less is not more with 3D printed parts. I may put out some more elegant versions at some point but these work to get you up and running, which is generally my goal.

For you Charger fans out there, stay tuned for a Charger Daytona/Plymouth Super Bird Front end and wing...

As always, use at your own risk.

Drive to wrench or wrench to drive?