The TuneFast Harp is a 3D printed musical instrument that uses a single-string to create an 8-note diatonic harp.
The total cost with all hardware is under $7 per harp and only takes around 3 hours to print.
Hear what it sounds like with a metal string https://youtu.be/fx9zlmGFXBQ and with a nylon string https://youtu.be/yGjTQOmBWsM.
UPDATE: A new version of the harp (AHarp22_v04.stl, shown below with blue PLA) has been modified from the original to include a parabolic sound reflector (focusing the sound 8-10cm away from the string) and a clipped corner (to reduce total material used). Files are also included to print your own M3 washers and the final M3 spacer to reduce the parts list a bit.
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We designed the harp to be easy to assemble and fairly quick to print so that even young makers with shared resources could try it out as makerspace/classroom projects.
You’ll need a handful of parts to complete this project. Everything is reasonably inexpensive, but many of the parts come in larger packs so you may want to plan to make a few and scale your quantities accordingly.
Here’s what you’ll need for each harp:
Optional parts (for those with washers/spacers around):
Our print time came out to around 3 hours total on a TAZ6 printing PLA with high speed settings and 30% infill.
Generally, the harp works well printed with fairly large layer heights (i.e. coarse/fast settings), but make sure you use at least 30% infill (to increase strength) and print with stiff plastic (PLA works well; ABS is strong, but it’s significantly less stiff than PLA and that’s what we’re looking for here).
After the print is complete, remove it from the print bed and clean up any defects from the print process (we didn’t really need to do anything, but your mileage may vary depending on which printer/filament you use). In particular, make sure there aren’t any extra strands or printer blobs that would interfere with the bearings.
Add the 8 bearings using an M3x20mm bolt, nut, and washer (we prefer metal belleville washers, but you can even print your own M3 washers). The washer should go between the bearing and the printed part to keep the bearing from touching and interfering with its ability to smoothly rotate. Tighten the bolt firmly, but not so tight that it causes the bearing to rub.
Next, add the spacer for the shortest/highest note (we don't use a bearing here because of space constraints and the minimal displacement under tension so close to the end of the string).
Now, double check that each of the bearings can rotate smoothly. If there’s additional friction in any of the bearings, the string won’t be under uniform tension and thus alter the relative tuning of some of the notes. If any bearing is rubbing, just loosen it, inspect/clean any surfaces, and slowly re-tighten.
Then install the guitar tuner in the remaining hole. Hand tighten in place with the knob facing outward. Screw it in place from the bottom and fully tighten the nut.
Finally, string it up. If using a ball end string (common for electric guitar strings), just feed it through the small hole by the spacer. If using a nylon string, tie a knot in it first near the end then feed it through.
Now weave the string back and forth, holding it firmly enough that it doesn’t slide off of the bearings as you go. After the last bearing, thread the string through the hole in the metal shaft of the tuner and turn the knob to tighten it in place. Bring the string just upto tension so it holds in place for tuning. Trim off any excess string that sticks out past the tuning peg so it doesn’t get in the way or poke you later.
Since all of the notes are produced from a single string under constant tension, all of the notes should be relatively in tune as soon as the string is somewhat tight. By further tightening the string, all of the notes will increase in frequency, allowing it to be tuned to any desired key.
Two things to keep in mind as you’re tuning:
Note that the harp also works well with steel strings, but they require about twice as much tension which can deform the printed part a bit more and make it trickier to play in-tune (especially when using thicker low strings). The other downside of using a metal string is that it can be pokey/dangerous when things break or things are flopping around as you string the instrument. Just work carefully and be mindful of others around you.
We hope you enjoy playing this experimental single-string diatonic harp. When properly built, it produces a pleasant sound and holds its tuning quite well.
The TuneFast Harp is intended to be a hands-on tool for learning about how stringed instruments work as well as a springboard for designing and printing your own custom stringed objects.
A final note for the musically inclined that feel limited by only having 8 notes to choose from: keep in mind that you can use chord inversions to play chords that go beyond the harp's limited range. For example a G Major chord (G-B-D) can be played in the 1st inversion (B-D-G) or 2nd inversion (D-G-B) to fit within the harp.
AHarp20_v07.stl | 342.8KB | |
AHarp21_v03_M3Bushing_6x4.stl | 103.5KB | |
AHarp21_v03_M3Washer.stl | 64.7KB | |
AHarp21_v03_PaperTemplate.pdf | 120.5KB | |
AHarp22_v04.stl | 570.6KB |