Tom Cat (Thomas Jasper "Tom" Cat Sr) , a cartoon character from the "Tom and Jerry" series of short films created by Hanna and Barbera for MGM.

The series features comic fights between an iconic set of adversaries, a house cat (Tom) and a mouse (Jerry). The plots of each short usually center on Tom's numerous attempts to capture Jerry and the mayhem and destruction that follows.

Except for the body, no other supports are required. See the notes section for where to place the supports in your slicer. If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.

The assembled model is 200mm tall.

The base for the Tom and Jerry models:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6144622

The full Jerry model:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6144620

Enjoy!

For all my models:
Do not enable 'Detect bridging perimeters'. This is a parameter that PrusaSlicer 2.6 enables by default.
Do not enable 'thick bridges'
Do not set 'arachne' for perimeter generation. PrusaSlice selects this option this by default
Do not enable 'detect thin walls'.

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Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback.

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Print Instructions:
Supports: Only body.stl requires some supports, see notes
Resolution: .2mm
Infill: 15%

Notes:**

Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions.

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Building the model

Colors

Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)
eye_black_right
eye_black_left
whiskers_right (contains two identical pieces)
whiskers_left (contains two identical pieces)
nose
mouth_black
eyebrow_right
eyebrow_left
..

Dark Grey: (Paramount3D PLA - Grey Battleship)
body (requires slicer supports in two places, see notes)
..

Light Grey: (Parmount3d PLA - Prototype Grey)
chest
bridge
..

Red: (Hatchbox PLA - True Red)
tongue
..

White: (Overture PLA - White)
hand_right
hand_left
mouth
foot_right
foot_left
tail
..

Yellow: (Paramount3D PLA - Simpson Yellow)
eye_yellow_right
eye_yellow_left
..

Green: (Unknown PLA - Green)
eye_green_right
eye_green_left
..

Pink: (CookieCad PLA - Pale Pink)
ear_right
ear-left
..

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Printing and assembly tips

Printing tips:

Due to slicers being continuously updated with new features and default profiles being changed over time, I've found some incompatibility with some new parameters that some slicers now enable by default. These parameters affect the printing quality of some parts of models that I post. To ensure continued ease of printing:

1- Do not enable 'Detect bridging perimeters'. This is a parameter that PrusaSlicer 2.6 enables by default which adversely affects built-in support separation.
2- Do not enable 'thick bridges'. This parameter also severely affects built-in support separation.
3- Do not enable 'detect thin walls'. This parameter affects some of the finer details of some parts.
4- Do not set 'arachne' for perimeter generation. PrusaSlicer selects this option by default which also affects some of the finer details of some parts.

1 - Only body.stl requires some supports. For the body both Benoit (QA testing) and I used the organic supports and default settings for them. We set the slicer to support ONLY the flat bottom of the left arm and the belly of the body.stl file.
Note: Future models will contain built-in supports again.

2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part.

*I used brims on:

• hand_left
• hand_right

3 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a VERY good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them (especially if you size up the model significantly) and assembling them in their proper place.

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Assembly tips:

1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Dry fit all the parts and give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.

2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.

3 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.

Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.