UNFORTUNATELY I NO LONGER HAVE ACCESS TO THE ORIGINAL DESIGN FILES SO I CANNOT MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS WITHOUT RECREATING THE ENTIRE THING

This is a thin rip jig designed to use a tire tread gauge as a digital readout. It has multiple mounting locations for the miter bar so it should work with most any table saw with a standard 3/4" miter slot. I made it to fit the gauge I bought specifically, but the other hardware is standard and should be available at your local home center. I purchased mine from Lowes. Please feel free to suggest improvements.

Accuracy depends on a ton of factors both with the print, the gauge, and the saw itself. I was able to get accurate cuts within a couple thousandths of an inch. Let me know how it performs with your tools.

Additional Materials Required:
1x Digital Tire Gauge http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRX7LWS
1x 1/4-20 Hex Bolt Fully Threaded (4" - 5" length)
4x 1/4-20 Flat Head 3/4" Bolt
3x 1/4 Washers
1x 1/4-20 Cross Dowel (5/8" outer diameter)
1x 1/4-20 Nylon Insert Lock Nut
4x 1/4-20 Hex Nut
1x M8-1.25 Bolt (this may be pan head or hex head)
1x M8-1.25 Nut
2x M8 Washer
2x 608 Bearing

Assembly:

1. Decide which mounting holes will be used in the base to attach the miter bar. You want the front of the base to be ~1.5" from the blade.
2. Insert 2 1/4-20 hex nuts into the mounting holes you chose. These will fit very snug. I threaded a bolt partway into the nut and used a hammer to lightly tap it down. You do not need to fully seat the nuts at this time, just get them at least flush with the surface.
3. Place the 1/4-20 hex bolt into the base with a washer on the outside. Thread on the nylon lock nut. This takes a while by hand. It's easiest to hold the lock nut with pliers and use an electric driver to turn the bolt. Be sure the bolt still spins freely without too much back and forth play.
4. Insert the cross dowel into the carriage. This is a very tight fit. I used a screwdriver to rotate the dowel as I pushed it into place.
5. Slide the carriage into the base and thread the bolt through the cross dowel. Again, this is easiest with an electric driver.
6. Place the stop into place between the bars of the carriage.
7. Attach the bearings to the carriage using the M8 bolt. Washers are only needed between the plastic carriage and the bearings.
8. Attach the miter bar to the base using 2 1/4-20 flat head bolts. Be careful not to over tighten these as they may crush the miter bar depending on your infill.
9. Attach the locking knobs using the other 2 1/4-20 flat head bolts with a washer between the knob and the miter bar.

Operation:

1. Advance the carriage until the bearing is just touching the saw tooth. Zero the digital gauge.
2. Back the carriage away until the digital readout shows desired thickness. Note the number will be negative.
3. Place the workpiece against the bearing and slide the fence over.
4. Make the cut. Continue to move the fence over so that the workpiece touches the bearing for repeat cuts.