Sunhokey X-carriage Replacement For Chinese E3D V5 Clone Mount 3D Printer Model
The file 'Sunhokey X-carriage Replacement For Chinese E3D V5 Clone Mount 3D Printer Model' is (stl) file type, size is 805.6KB.
The file 'Sunhokey X-carriage Replacement For Chinese E3D V5 Clone Mount 3D Printer Model' is (stl) file type, size is 805.6KB.
(stl-files uploaded, more clear pictures to come)
=== IDEA ===
Compact X-carriage with following features:
1/ Uses E3D V5 heat sink which comes with chinese Prusa Sunhokey acrylic printer.
2/ Compact, allows to print on 200x200 mm print area.
3/ Uses 40x40 mm fan with nozzle for heat sink cooling.
4/ Uses 50x50 mm centrifugal fan for print cooling.
5/ Uses 18 mm capacitive proximity sensor for auto bed leveling.
6/ Uses LEDs to light the print to see the quality underway.
7/ Uses bearing blocks to avoid play and rods scratches.
8/ Nothing is mounted on the front what allows to observe the printing nozzle.
9/ All parts should be printed without support or bridges.
10/ The heat sink with hotend is lifted up to allow printing up to 200 mm tall prints.
=== FUNNY STUFF ===
I have started this work about 18 months ago. And only close to the end I have occasionally come across this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1852785
Joshua uses almost identical design but for E3D V6 hotend. The only real difference in idea is that I have lifted up the hotend to win several millimeters of print height. This coincidence very nice illustrates the well known principle of TRIZ: there is a typical path of engineered systems development. Funny!
=== BEARING BLOCKS ===
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1424346
=== TIPS ON PRINTING ====
If you do not have a print cooling fan the only thing which is not very easy to print is tube for 50*50 mm fan. Put it upright. No supports are needed. Prepare any computer cooling fan, hold it in your hand and direct to print when the very tip of the tube will be printed. Do not hold it too close to the print because the airflow may deform the tip of the tube. If the tip is not very accurate (like it happened in my case) do the following: put hot water in a glass (about 80-90C) and hold the deformated part in water for several seconds. It will become soft. Than you can shape it by hand. Works nice.
=== LIST OF MATERIALS ===
1/ To attach four bearing blocks to vertical wall:
bolts M4x12 - 6 pcs
botls M4x10 - 2 pcs
2/ For timing belt hook (frame):
bolts M4x20 - 2 pcs
3/ For 40x40 mm fan nozzle:
bolts M3x16 - 4 pcs
bolts M3x25 - 2 pcs
nuts M3 - 4 pcs
4/ For capacitive sensor holder:
bolts M3x12 - 2 pcs
bolt M3x10 - 1 pc
nut M3 - 1 pc
5/ For 50x50 mm centrifugal fan:
bolts M3x25 - 2 pcs
nuts M2 - 2 pcs
6/ For heat sink holder:
bolts M4x16 2 pcs
7/ For print cooling tube:
bolts M3x10 - 2 pcs
nuts M3 - 2 pcs
I might have missed a couple of M3 bolts. Forgive me.
| Clamp.stl | 58.5KB | |
| Fan_40mm_nozzle.stl | 183.5KB | |
| Holder.stl | 78.6KB | |
| LED_panel.stl | 15.1KB | |
| Printed_parts_assembled.stl | 1.8MB | |
| Sensor_holder.stl | 155.4KB | |
| Timing_belt_hook.stl | 19.6KB | |
| Tube.stl | 33.5KB | |
| Wall.stl | 135.2KB | |
| Wires_clip.stl | 70.9KB |
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