Last update 2022.01.27
THIS PROJECT IS STILL VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS - Bottom section needs a notch for 1 m2.5 screw to attach base lower panel to base upper panel.

Demo video on youtube https://youtu.be/VpyOh2fm7kE

As if the pimoroni hyperpixel 4.0" square screen wasn't enough in demand. This is a rough desktop monitor model based on the one shown in Star Trek: The Next Generation. This is a much smaller model than whatever they built for the show. I have wanted to build a shell for my heavily modified MagicMirror pi zero.

Magic Mirror does not install successfully using default methods for a pi zero. I followed the guide given here - https://www.linuxscrew.com/raspberry-pi-magic-mirror

I created the LCARS-ified graphics / theme myself. When I have my copy of the Magic Mirror project code finalized, I will post it to my github and link to that from here. No ETA.

Early list of instructions for the MagicMirror build are here:
https://github.com/lambtor/PicardDesktopMonitor-MagicMirror

Square display does not work well with the LCARS style sheet I created, as I had designed it for a 4:3 screen aspect ratio. The Screen Frame tab part allows you to see the bottom of the screen when you need it, like command prompt, etc.

Main frame is 1 or 2 pieces, with cutouts for SD card and an optional camera tray. Camera Tray cutout should fit https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/camera-module-v2/ You will need an adapter ribbon cable to connect the camera to a pi zero w. I used a no-solder header kit for pi zero to connect to the hyperpixel.

hyperpixel : https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/hyperpixel-4-square?variant=30138251444307

pi zero headers: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/gpio-hammer-header?variant=35643241098

usb 2.0 hub (you'll want to pop it out of its plastic shell): https://www.microcenter.com/product/481583/manhattan-hi-speed-usb-20-4-port-micro-hub

Base is 3 pieces - a top section, bottom panel, and a button. Button is planned to be wired to a TeensyLC to trigger display on/off by hitting the keyboard "pause" key, and should be printed in TPU. Inner button shelf is sized to fit a 12mm x 6mm https://www.adafruit.com/product/1119 meant to hit the mapped TeensyLC pin. Base has 2 cutouts for usb cables. I used these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NR19BQ

The prong that extends in from the inner ceiling of the display frame should snap onto a screw used to attach the pi zero to the hyperpixel back. Use m2.5 x 8mm nuts & m2.5 screws on the lower 2 pi zero screw holes so the board tries to sit evenly against the back of the hyperpixel.

The notches on all parts can be filled in with paint, if you're skilled at that, or you can use white duct tape cut to really thin strips.