Smart Nanoleaf Replica 3D Printer Model

Author: @
License: CC BY-NC-SA
File formats: stl,f3d
Download type: zip
Size:1.8MB

The file 'Smart Nanoleaf Replica 3D Printer Model' is (stl,f3d) file type, size is 1.8MB.

Summary

3D-Printed DIY Nanoleafs

Pretty, smart and modular almost like the original, however much cheaper. Including a great custom made software

The software has many cool and modular features, which can be configured or disable individually:

  • 40+ preconfigured animations
  • WebUI with light and dark theme
  • Sound reactive to a windows audio output using the IoT-Audio-Visualization-Center
  • Alexa integration
  • MQTT/HomeAssistant support
  • mDNS to be easily located in the network
  • OTA integration to be updated wireless

Software

The software and detailed setup instructions can be found on GitHub:

>>Software<<, >>Instructions<<

For beginners there is a setup tutorial too, please mind that the versions mentioned in the video are no longer correct.

Hardware

Bill of Materials

The links above are affiliate Links

1. Plan your setup

I would recommend making a plan how your leafs should be arranged. Afterwards make a quantity table of all parts that need to be 3D-printed.

Choose how many led pixels you will use in the corners. Every corner must have the same amount of leds in each corner.
I've used 4x leds in each corner, thats 12 led pixels per leaf → 1m of 60 leds/m = 5 leafs
I would not go for more than 5 leds per corner on the 60leds/m led strip, because the strip might interfere with the connector on the side.

2. Choose your diffuser variant

There are 3 different variants of the diffuser available:

  • PLA diffuser
  • Paper diffuser
  • Edged Paper diffuser

PLA diffuser:
The PLA diffuser is recommended if you print on a flat print surface and you get a consistant first layer, for instance if you print on a glass plate.

Paper diffuser:
If you don't get consistant first layers choose the paper diffuser, cut photo paper into pieces using the cutting_tool.stl.

Edged Paper diffuser:
Choose this one, if you don't like the round edges of the regular paper diffuser.

3. Print your parts

Make sure you print all diffusers at 100% infill with white PLA, if you don't print at 100% the infill pattern might shine through.

The base can be printed in black PLA, but any other color will work too. Choose white PLA for the base if you prefer that the leds should shine through a bit on the sides. The base is also available as an M3 variant. The base can be printed at amount any infill.

You can either print the electronics box or just glue the ESP8266 directly onto the first base.

4. Assemble the Leafs

First remove the tape of the backside of the led strip and put it into the corners. All led strip pieces must have the GND line facing downwards. Cut the wire into pieces. Make sure your wire pieces aren't too long, otherwise they might be visible when they are too close to the diffuser. When soldering, mind the arrow, it must face always in the same direction, the arrow must face away from the ESP8266.

Important: All led pieces must be connected in series, no parallel connections!

5. Connect the Leafs

Connect all leafs together with the M4 bolts together. Leave a 4mm gap between all leaf connections. Afterwards connect the endpoint of the leaf to the starting point of the next leaf.
Mind the arrow!

6. Wire the electronics box

Mount the power jack and the Wemos D1 inside. Connect the start of the strip to the pin D4 of ther ESP8266. Connect the remaining wires as shown below.



7. Mount the Nanoleafs

Make sure you flash the software first and test the leafs. If glitches occur use a logic-level converter. If there are still glitches, check if the data line interferes with other lines. If your leds start to dimm or change color along the strip you might want to connect another power supply at the end of the strip.

If everything works fine, push the diffusers from the top in and use an allen key or a screwdriver to tighten the connections between the leafs.

You can either mount the 'Nanoleafs' using:

  • Nails (recommended)
  • A rawlplug and a screw
  • double sided tape

Troubleshooting

"Not found :/" error

The webserver showing "not found :/" indicates that no sketch data is located on the device. This could be the case if the user hasn't uploaded the sketch data using the "ESP8266-Sketch-Data-Uploader". Or the sketch data upload process has failed, therefor try uploading it again. But make sure you have the correct flash-size selected in the tools menu. For a Wemos D1 mini this has to be set to 4096kb, 1MB SPIFFS, 1MB OTA.

Issues while compiling

  • Compiling throws errors
    • Update all libraries to the newest versions (esp8266, FastLED, PubSubClient, ArduinoOTA)
  • Sketch Data Upload does not work
    • Download the newest version of the ESP8266-FS plugin for the Arduino IDE
  • The Arduino IDE doesn't show the other files and says that files weren't found
    • The Arduino IDE requires that the filename of the .ino file has the same name as the folder it is in, if the names do not match, then the .ino file will be moved into a new folder, to fix it move the file up to the other files and make sure the folder name is the same as the one of the file
  • Secrets.h file not found
    • Create the Secrets.h file according to the instructions

Issues while uploading

  • The Arduino doesn't boot when the LEDs are attached
    • The LEDs might be wired in the wrong direction, the arrow must point away from the esp8266
  • The Sketch-Data-Upload says "esptool.exe not found"
    • Download the newest version of the ESP8266-FS plugin for the Arduino IDE

Issues with the Webinterface

  • The website just shows "not found :/"
    • Upload the sketch data again using the "ESP8266-Sketch-Data-Uploader" from the tools menu
    • Verify your settings in the tools menu
    • Check if the upload process completes without any errors
  • The website doesn't load
    • Check if you have entered the correct IP-Address
    • Make sure you are in the same network as the device
    • Try opening the serial monitor of the Arduino IDE and reset your board. The terminal should output something and indicate what is going on

Issues with the LEDs

  • The LEDs flicker a lot
    • You might have bad soldering spots
    • Try to use a logic level shifter to shift the supplied data signal to 5V
  • Not all of my LEDs turn on

    • Check if you have correct values for the variables that define the amount of LEDs
    • Check the wiring for errors
  • My LEDs just light up white
    • Try updating all libaries to the newest versions

FAQ

  • Can I connect to the esp8266 from outside of my local network?
    • Yes, you can do this by creating a port forwarding rule on your router
  • Can I use the NodeMCU for this project?
    • Yes the software should work with every esp8266 based board. Make sure the correct pin is defined correctly
  • Can I use an esp32?
    • The software doesn't support esp32, but jasoncoon wrote a esp32 edition but it just has basic functionality
  • Can I use other LED-Strip types for this project?
    • Yes, any FastLED compatible LED-Strip can be used
    • To use different LED-Strips change the LED_TYPE in the main config area
    • A list of all compatible LED-Strips can be found here.
  • What power supply should I choose?
    • 100x 5V WS2812 LEDs draw around 3A
  • What LED-Strip should I choose?
    • I would recommend a WS2812B LED-Strip with 60LEDs/m
Base.stl 165.1KB
base_alignment_tool_by_Jurassic73.stl 960.7KB
Base_M3_Variant.stl 165.1KB
DEPRECATED_base_filled.stl 158.8KB
Electronic_base.stl 29.6KB
Electronic_base_mirrored.stl 29.6KB
Electronic_top.stl 18.4KB
Electronic_top_mirrored.stl 21.0KB
NanoLeafs_v28.f3d 1.3MB
Paper_Cutting_Tool.stl 98.7KB
Top_1_Hole.stl 66.8KB
Top_2_Holes.stl 75.8KB
Top_3_Holes.stl 84.8KB
Top_edged_1_Hole.stl 59.2KB
Top_edged_2_Holes.stl 68.1KB
Top_edged_3_Holes.stl 77.1KB
Top_PLA_1_hole.stl 66.6KB
Top_PLA_2_holes.stl 75.6KB
Top_PLA_3_holes.stl 84.6KB