IMPORTANT NOTICE! For Mizar S, you MUST bend, remove, or otherwise re-locate your LED for the duct to fit past the LED bulb. For me, I chose to de-solder it, flip it around and solder it back in on the opposite site of the circuit board. Pretty easy to do, but not everyone would be up for it. Alternatively, you can just snap the LED off if you don't care (or cut the legs with snips), or just try your best to bend it out of the way. Alternatively, feel free to modify the model (but it won't be evenly spaced ducts anymore).

Change log for:
v1.5 Top, 1.6 Bottom

• Separated the model into two pieces. This allows for reduction of materials used. I recommend printing them separately. Top piece requires supports, however the bottom is fully printable support-less now. Simply rotate the bottom piece so the back of the duct is face-down on the bed and your printer should be able to handle it. I was able to print mine in PETG and the bridges formed effortlessly. I have finished cleaning up the geometry - no more print artefacts or weird polygons, no slicing issues on my end. Make sure to print with 2 or 3 support pegs - insert them and use them to line up the two halves at time of assembly. Glue is required. Additionally, some airflow was restricted on v1.4 at the end of the duct - I hadn't noticed until a bit later. This is resolved in bottom v1.6.

                v1.4

• Significantly remodeled, no mesh fixes required in slicer anymore. Moved the fan mount, expanded hole. Improved airflow. Pretty much the same as v1.5/1.6 but is one solid printable part. Take care to slice supports in a way that doesn't cause them to form inside the duct.

DESCRIPTION BELOW:

I've spent several hours slowly chopping away at the original Satsana model for the Ender 3 to fit it for this printer. The original design doesn't even remotely fit the Mizar S, so a lot of work went into trying to move parts around and adding on the mounts that I had reverse-engineered from the original hotend cover, which I used in another design posted here.

Great efforts have been made to retain the functionality of the original design while trying to shoehorn the thing to fit around the oddball layout of the Mizar.

1: LED is in the way of the duct. You will need to either relocate the LED or snip it off or bend it up and out of the way, depending on your preference. For me, I desoldered the LED and mounted it on the other side of the PCB so that I could bend it slightly to give the duct clearance.

2: While the front fan wire is long enough to reach, the blower fan wire is not. Please solder a longer wire / extend the existing wire, or replace the fan with one that has a longer cable. I chose to extend the wire, it was very simple.

3: Last bit of advice - use tree supports only touching build plate, otherwise it will build supports all inside the duct. If printing v1.6 bottom alone, you can disable supports and rotate the model so the back of the duct is making contact with the hot bed.

Creator of the original Satsana on which this is based - https://www.thingiverse.com/eric-anastas

Edit - V1.5 of the top and v1.6 of the bottom have been added. They are now separate pieces to be printed. 1.5 top and 1.6 bottom are compatible with one-another. Due to the odd mechanism for mounting the hotend shroud on this printer, I haven't yet figured out a way to enable printing the whole thing on its back support-less like the original Satsana was for the Ender 3. Splitting them allows you to use different support settings for the two halves. For instance, v1.6 (with Slicing Tolerance set to Exclusive) can be printed support-less while standing up. There are grooves modelled into the bases of both halves, and guide pins can be printed to help you line the pieces up for adhesion. I recommend gorilla glue gel.