Red And Black CO2 Laser (and Others) Adjusting Laser Head Mount 3D Printer Model

Author: @
License: CC BY-SA
File formats: stl
Download type: zip
Size:118.6KB

The file 'Red And Black CO2 Laser (and Others) Adjusting Laser Head Mount 3D Printer Model' is (stl) file type, size is 118.6KB.

Summary

So I created this sliding, adjustable laser head mount for my Chinese red and black CO2 laser because the factory setup had NO WAY TO MOVE the laser head to hit dead center in the mirror. I looked and looked everywhere online to try and find what I needed, but it was nowhere to be found, so I developed one! If you look at the pictures I am attaching to the print files, you will see that on my final setup, I actually took a dremel and cut the top off shorter on the mount. This was because in the original design I didn't realize it was going to hit a part of the machine after I turned it on. I fixed this in the files included to make it where you won't have to cut it. I was just tired of taking the mount apart with trials and errors and decided to leave it because it works great. I have listed the files with numbers, to make it easier to know which order to install. On laser bracket number 2, which is the piece that slides forwards and backwards, I also put a hole in the design in case you want to use it for routing your air line through. The only real modifications you will need to do to your machine as it sit now, is moving one set screw on the laser head adjusting mirror (the one farthest from you when looking into the machine). You will want to move it to the front, so it doesn't catch on the sliding bracket that goes up and down. I originally designed another bracket that allowed it to travel with the set screw in place, but it weakened the backplate too much, so I decided to just move the set screw. In my particular choice, I just went to the hardware store and bought a 9/64 drill bit, along with a 8-32nc tap, and a new set screw to go along with it. Worked great. The other only 2 mods you will need to do is shorten your belt length to match the new design, making sure to trim even around the screws on one side where the belt attaches, so the assembly can still slide up and down without hitting the belt (see my pics)...after trimming the belt (don't have to remove much belt at all from the factory layout), you will need to jog the head to the farthest position you can at the bottom right corner to where it doesn't hit the bed adjusting wheel. Go into lightburn and then change the step count to match whatever shows on the ruida controller screen. In my case, I reduced from 700 to 695. This will assure the machine never hits the head on the bottom right bed leveling knob. Not that you rarely even get that close anyways lol. I left all the sliding slots a little too close to properly fit the allen screws I chose to use (I'm sorry I don't remember their specs right off hand), so i took a dremel after the fact and just slightly removed some of the slots until the screws just did fit snug but still slide. I was going to change this in the design, but I thought it may be better to leave it tight, so everyone else can do the same thing to make sure it fits whatever screws you choose. It's best to get square nuts from the hardware store on the sliding bracket that goes up and down, because I made the design where they will recess into the plastic, allowing a flush surface. I think you can see all this in my photos. Anyways, It sounds more complicated then it really is. Just print it, and you can start from there. This was a HUGE trial and effort to get the final design. Hours of designing and testing, but I think it paid off! I forgot to mention one thing. On my design, what is bracket number 1 in the files, I made mine out of metal.. I think plastic will be fine, but I liked having at least one piece of metal to support the entire assembly. I bought a 12x12 piece of metal from onlinemetals.com. 21989 14 ga. (0.075") Carbon Steel Sheet A606/A588A Weathering Steel is what I purchased. This was the exact gauge that was used on the factory setup, and was perfect for this project. My suggestion would be to print the design and try it first, but if it doesn't seem strong enough, buy the metal and use the print as a guide to recreate the number 1 bracket. You will just need a tap to accomodate the allen screws used in the number 2 brackets that meets it. After everything is said and done, this bracket is a BEAST. It is VERY ridgid, and my cuts have been phenomenal. It holds the laser head at a perfect 90 degree angle to the bed, which i have not had the entire time of owning the machine. My cuts no long have angles. Being able to align my mirrors as before, AND move the head up and down and in and out in the end process of making the laser hit the tube dead in the middle was a blessing. I hope eveyone gets joy in this print, and please, feel free to modify, and share with me!!!! Maybe someone can design a thumb screw or something that doesn't interfere with the machine that can accomodate fine adjustments. Who knows!!! Clips to hold the airline or laser wire....anything! Have fun, and get ready to be rewarded if you decide to make this modification. In some of the photos, The brackets may seem a bit different, but it's because it was PRE final design. I only include these to show you a better look at how it functions. Ignore if the brackets seem different. OH!!! I included a fake laser head to let you play with it on tinkercad if you want lol. Make sure to put a level on top of the assembly when you bolt plate number 1 to the machine rail, so the laser head is straight once completed.
Dummy_Laser_Head.stl 41.3KB
laser_Bracket_2_without_adjusting_slot_1.stl 184.5KB
Laser_bracket_3_3.stl 62.1KB
Laser_Head_Clip_4_2.stl 57.9KB
Laser_to_rail_bracket_1.stl 137.5KB