UPDATE: The original model was optimized to slice and print well on my printer, which has a 0.35 nozzle. But a friend had trouble slicing this for his 0.4 printer due to the very thin walls of the enclosure. So I have uploaded alternate versions of the case and surround .stl files that have a 2mm wall thickness. (The original is 1.85mm) The same brackets can be used with either design. After slicing, it is recommended that you inspect the tool path output in the gcode before you print, to ensure adequate wall strength.

The Raspberry Pi makes a great portable linux machine, but it is hard to manage without some kind of display. Now the 7" touchscreen makes it easy to see what the Pi is doing. There were a few good case designs already, but none of them allowed easy access to change the SD card. I also had problems slicing some of the existing designs to fit onto my 200mm printer.

This project was inspired by http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1082431 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1164446, but is a brand new design (not a remix) hand-crafted with OpenSCAD.

Design Goals:
1.) Full access to (almost!) all Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 Model B ports, including the SD card slot. The case intentionally covers the USB power input port on the Pi so that you don't accidentally try to use it. Instead, USB power goes into the port on the PowerBoost to charge the battery and/or run the Pi from wall power.
2.) Room inside for a large battery. I am using a 6000 mAH battery pack.
3.) 3D printable without supports - short bridging required. Can be printed on a 200mm print bed. To avoid warping, let printed parts cool before attempting removal from print bed. Total print time ~ 8 hours.
4.) All cables exit through the side or rear of the enclosure to allow it to sit smartly on edge during use.

Ingredients:
The circuit I used was published by Adafruit. I used the element14 7" Touchscreen and the Adafruit PowerBoost 1000C lipo battery charger with a Raspberry Pi 3B, along with a 6000 mAH 3.7v lipo pack. You will also need to provide a SPST or SPDT slide switch, some velcro, and a few small (#0 or M3) screws to hold everything together.

NOTE: If you attempt to turn on the Raspberry Pi without a formatted (and uncorrupted) OS loaded onto the micro SD card, the monitor will not turn on. If the display doesn't work with your Pi, first make sure you have inserted a good micro SD card before you disassemble the unit.

For additional build instructions, see the excellent Adafruit page describing the original project:

https://learn.adafruit.com/7-portable-raspberry-pi-multitouch-tablet/overview