Project Blackbird Modular Rocket.

** UPDATE. There was something off with 3 of the STL files. Both motor mount stops and the mock bottom. They are now repaired. I f you are having an issue printing, please let me know in the comments

I used Ellipticaloptician's Engine mounting system, so I remixed this to him.

After making Ellipticaloptician's rockets for my kids to launch for their first model rockets, I decided to design my own rocket. I liked Ellipticaloptician's mount very much so I incorporated it into this model rocket system.

As I designed it, it reminded me of an SR71 spy plane a bit, and I like the sound of Project Black bird. So that's what I call it.

This is a modular Rocket. Meaning you can put it together more than one way.

1. Single stage D size engine.
2. Single stage E size engine.
3. Two stage, D booster w/ D final.
4. Two stage, D booster w/ E final.
5. Three stage, D booster, E Second & E or D final.

And more.

Because the mounting system is not integrated into the rocket tubes, you can customize.

Parts list and explanations:

Bottom section - This is the bottom most part of the rocket. Is configure as a Booster in multi stage setup, or as the bottom of a single stage rocket.

Middle section - Used as the Final or second stage. Fits E size engine and D size with adapter. Can be made to fit only D as well.

Body tube -This is used for the main body of rocket. Can be double with coupler to make rocket longer. Can be made to be Final stage in Three stage rocket.

Motor Mount Stop long - used for motor mount stop in single stage, or in the second stage of Two stage setup.

Motor Mount Stop Short - Used for Motor mount stop on booster stage, and second stage in three stage setup. * can be used instead of Long stop in all configs if desired.

Locking Ring - Used at the bottom of each stage to allow motor to be twist locked in place with Motor Lock caps.

Motor Lock Cap Bottom - This is an unchanged design by Ellipticaloptican. This locks the motor in the very bottom section.

Motor Lock Cap Upper - This is a redesign of Ellipitcaloptician's motor cap the is designed to lock the motor in between sections. The end will nest into the top of the motor stop mount short.

Mock engine cap 1 - Plain Jane cap for the mock engines on the sides of the rocket.

Mock engine cap 2 - Cap for mock engines that looks like a jet intake.

Mock engine bottom cap - goes at the bottom of the booster on the mock engines. Looks like a Jet afterburner. Has a mount for the Booster stage recovery system.

Booster Stage Recovery cap - This is a cap to house a recovery system for the booster stage. In the middle section in the mock engine, you put streamers from Bright marking tape rolled up inside. Connected by string to the cap, through the hole, down into the mock engine of the booster section, to the mounting point on the Mock engine bottom cap. When the booster is ejected, it pulls the streamers out of the housings and slows the decent, while letting you see where it falls.

Locking ring tool - used to set the locking ring in an upper stage 5mm so that the short motor stop fits into it and allows the motor lock cap upper to nest properly.

D to E adapter - Adapts a D engine to an E engine.

D mock up - D size engine Mock up. Used to make sure your mount and locking ring are
in the right place.

E Mock up - E size engine Mock up. Used to make sure your mount and locking ring are in the right place

I did not design a nose cone. I just used one of ellipticaloptician's. You can use any that you'd like. I included the one I have on my model which is ellipticaloptician's.

I plan to make a video on assembly and how to put this together a few ways. I have build one and everything fits awesome. I have not launched it yet. The fully assembled rocket with engines in it weighs 5 oz. So the rocket is very light weight for being 3d printed. I kept everything as thin as possible without making it too weak. Launch weight of D12 engine is 10oz. This rocket is half that with both engines in it. If you go to a single engine setup, you could probably launch C11 engine, as it is just over estimated launch max which is probably fine. That's the lowest I would go.

Instructions for 2 stage D booster E/D Final:

Parts needed. 1 bottom section. 1 middle section. 1 body tube. 1 motor mount stop short. 1 motor mount stop long. 2 locking rings. 1 motor cap bottom. 1 motor cap upper. 2 caps of choice for mock engines. 2 mock engine bottom caps. 2 booster stage recovery caps. 1 locking ring tool. And if you don't have a D & E engine handy print of 1 each of the engine mock ups.

Booster stage:

1. Take bottom section and locking ring.Locking ring should be oriented so that tabs are to bottom. Put bead of CA or Krazy glue around bottom inside of bottom section. Push locking ring in bottom of bottom section so it is flush with the end.

2. Take motor locking cap bottom and put D mock up in it so it is inserted all the way in. lock into bottom of bottom section. Take motor mount stop short, and put a bead of CA or Krazy glue in the top inside of bottom section. Push Motor mount stop short in, until it snugs the D mock up. *** The bottom of the mount is the side that is stepped. The top has a smooth bevel inside. On the outside of the mount is an indicator ring. This ring is on the top of the mount. The motor will rest inside the step of the inside of the mount stop.

3. Use Bottom engine caps. Using sturdy string, cut 2 pieces approx. 12" long. Tie one to each loop on bottom engine cap. Run string up through each mock engine. Put a bead of CA or Krazy glue on inside bottom of mock engines and push bottom caps in bottom of mock engines.

4. Use booster stage recovery caps. Run string through hole about 4". It first goes in the flat side, and then through, and tie to loop leaving about 4 inches of string. take 2 pcs. about 20" of 1" wide bright orange marking tape folded in half, and tie end of string around center for each string. ** Or use whatever color you want.

Booster stage is complete.

Final stage:

1. Take middle section, 1 locking ring and the locking ring tool. The locking ring is oriented so tabs are down. Put Locking ring tool on table. Put a bead of CA or Krazy glue about 5mm in the bottom inside of middle section tube. Put longing ring in bottom of middle section and push the locking ring into place with locking ring look by placing middle section over the tool, and pressing tube down onto it so it pushes the locking ring up into tune. Push until tube is flush with table.

2. Take motor lock cap upper, and E mock up. push E mock up into Motor cap upper so it is pushed all the way in. Lock E mock up into bottom of middle section. Put a bead of CA or Krazy glue around the inside of the top of the middle section tube. Take the Motor mount stop long and press it in so that the stepped side is down and fits over E mock up. There is an indicator ring, and it should just be covered by the body tube as you push it in.

3. Put glue on the exposed end of the motor mount stop long and take the body tube and slide it on.

4. take mock engine cap of choice and put a bead of glue on the top inside of mock engines on middle section and push cap in.

Main assembly of rocket is complete.

Attaching booster section to rocket:

1. Roll up the marking tape ribbons and slid them into the bottom of the mock engines on the middle section, and cap with recovery system caps.

2. You should have the ribbons in the middle section mock engines with the caps on, and the string coming out of the hole into the mock engines on the booster section mounted to the bottom inside.

3. stuff excess string into mock engine on booster and slide booster section into middle section so that the rod guides are aligned.

DONE!

Recover system for rocket final stage:

I like to use estes method for this. It's simple, it keeps the cord away from the engine, and it works.

Need a big rubber band. piece of a4 paper and glue. With the PETG I find hot glue works the best.

1. cut a strip of paper that is about 6" long and 3/4" wide tapering to 1-1/4 inch wide.

2. Cut the rubber band so it is not a loop. on the narrow end of the paper, put a dab of glue and push one end of the cut rubber band into the glue. Fold the paper over so it is about 1/2" - 3/4". Dab of glue, and fold again. Repeat until there is no more paper left to fold.

3. coat one side of paper with glue, and push it to the inside of the top of the body tube as far down as you can reach with your finger and smush it to the inside of the tube. Hold in place until hot glue cools enough.

4. Attach parachute to nose cone.

5. take about 12" of sturdy string and tie to other end of rubber band, and tie other end to nose cone.

COMPLETE!!!