WIP: This is a update of a design I made for my original 2020 prusa clone, years ago (HICTOP 3DP-17, heavily modded)... It's designed specifically for the Creality Ender3 line of printers, but should work on the CR-10 as well (haven't tested it, don't have one).

This helps with two issues I run into when bed-leveling:

1) Adjusting the z-endstop position when doing a "fresh-tram" leveling process is a pain... With only the two M4 T-nuts for adjusting the z-endstop switch hanger, it can be very twitchy when trying to fine-tune the switch position.

2) Different thickness beds... I use glass beds, fibreglass-PEI, and spring steel-PEI sheets depending on material I'm printing, and thicknesses vary from as much a 1.5mm to 4.5mm thick. Huge pain to have to shimmy the z-stop around.

Parts you'll need:

1 - Anchor part
1 - Bracket part
1 - 25mm x 8mm wire spring (I use an old Ender3 bed spring)
1 - M3 x 40mm Hex Cap Screw
3 - M3 Flat Washers
2 - M3 x 6mm Hex Button Screws (can reuse the stock screws)
1 - M4 x 8mm Hex Cap Screw
1 - M4 T-Nut for 2020 rail (can reuse one of the stock screws/nuts)
1- M3 x 6mm Brass Embedment Nut (heat-iron inserted See link below)

Print flat faces down with bed-only supports on the "Bracket" part.

I may design a version that uses standard M3 hex nuts in slots in the "Anchor" part... But I love brass embedment inserts.

I use these a lot now: Knurled Threaded Embedment Inserts

You can use a standard solder iron set to ~230-240C... I've done it with just a fine-point soldering tip, or one of these specialty tips: Heat-Set Insertion Tips

And this soldering iron is perfect for pretty much any job... Gets more use than my nice bench iron: LCD Digital-Control Soldering Iron

Will add photos soon!