VERSION 2 EDIT NOTES BELOW

This is a remix from Palacio Gamer on YouTube, his original model was for an Orange Pi 5 and can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B176BsWSIXc

After having so much fun with the NES inspired case for the Pi 4, I had originally wanted to find a Game Cube inspired case for the Raspberry Pi 5, though I could never find one so that lead me to make my own. Before I could get started I found the video listed above from Palacio Gamer where he lists his files on a link in the description of his video to a different site. I've converted his model to suit my needs as well as what I see as improvements to how it prints and its aesthetics.

The model I uploaded sits at about 5" long, 5" wide, 4" tall. I didn't print this myself, as I'm still trying to pick my first printer, so I can't advise on any printer settings at all. I will say though that I have Bambu Studio installed and I did have to use the "repair" function on gcBase before it was happy. It probably means I missed a spot during modification, but as you can see in the images it prints just fine after that.

Parts list for this assembled device as shown:
1: Raspberry Pi 5 with active cooler and 27w power supply
1: 2TB SSD
1: Geekworm X1100 2.5" SATA SSD shield for Raspberry Pi 5
1: pack [2] Qianrenon 90 degree USB 3.1 adapter USB A male to female
1: Fidioto 4 USB extension cable 1 male to 4 female cord
1: Babaobox 24awg molex 2 pin connector plug with 150mm wire cable and 2 pin female header plug
1: Starelo 12mm momentary push button switch silver shell pre-wired
2: DuPont 2.54mm female adapter with crimp pins
2: M3 x 20mm screws
2: M3 nuts

I have yet to implement the led power indicator, but I went with:
1: Chanzon 5mm orange LED
1: Maixbomr short USB A male 2 pin bare wire open pigtail

I would suggest no one make this project as it involves DIY and you will be responsible for your own work. This post is just for educational purposes.

I soldered the Babaobox cables to the open ports on the Pi right by the power switch, this is what I'm using to connect the momentary switch to the pi.
The 2.5" SSD connects to the X1100 shield, and that is mounted to the raised bars in the gcBase. I just screwed right into the plastic.
The first 90 degree USB adapter connects to the top USB 3.0 port on the Raspberry Pi, and that is screwed into the X1100. Then the X1100's USB adapter can slide under the 90 degree adapter already attached and plug into the bottom USB 3.0 port on the Pi and the only USB port on the X1100. It's snug but it fits, that's why the adapter needs to go in before the Pi is mounted. I discovered I needed to use the second 90 degree USB adapter by connecting it to the first, and then the 4 USB extension cable can Plug into this.
The gcFront_purple mounts to the back side of the gcFront_grey, I added some glue to secure them but really the middle pin fits snugly.
The gcLedLens can be persuaded to snugly fit into the gcLid from the top. It's so small and snug that I didn't add any glue to this. Now would also be a good time to remove the bottom nut on the momentary button and thread the wire into the power button slot, and then screw the bottom nut back on from under the lid. The DuPont wire adapters and crimp pins can be attached to the wires on the momentary button at this time.
Slide the combined front purple and grey piece into the gcBase front slot, add a little bit of your preferred glue to that little buck tooth thing under the lid that sits right behind the front and then place the lid on gcBase while the gcFront is still slid into that front channel. Allow the glue to dry before moving forward.
Once the glue dries the lid and combined front pieces can be lifted up together, it was at this point I reinforced the pieces with hot glue. Then I slotted in the four female adapter parts of that 1-4 USB adapter cable and hot glued those in place as well. Make sure the grey front part where the USB is sticking out looks just like you want it before hot gluing anything.
Insert the handle into the gcBase in the two slots in the rear wall. I like to leave the flat part of the triangles facing up, but I don't think it really matters.
Insert both m3 nuts into the little slots underneath the lid, I didn't make the slots small enough so I had to add a touch of glue while being careful not to glue closed the threads and making sure the bolt can pass through the handle, base, lid, and the nut.
Once that glue dries fully, connect the wires with the DuPont adapter and crimp pins coming from the momentary switch in the lid to the wires soldered to the Pi itself. This will act like a quick disconnect point. Then close the lid while doing your best to encourage the wires to the sides. Then insert both M3 bolts from the back through the handle and all the way through to the bolts. If done correctly the bolts should seat easily. I did notice on mine that with the bolts screwed all the way in they continued past the plastic .. which is why those punch out areas are there in the image of the inside of the case.

I added a sticker to the lid but will try again with a nicer vinyl sticker later to see if that looks nicer. It helps to label the "console" but also to hide any print issues from having that large gap on the top of the lid.

I don't know how this will work long term, I've been using it to setup software for 4-5 hours at a time for several days and so far it works like I thought it would. Your mileage may vary, so again, I would suggest no one make this project as I'm just posting this for educational purposes.

Edit 1:
Finally got the vinyl stickers in and they look a lot nicer than the paper stickers for the lid .. but they're harder to work with.
I've also added a USB 1 to 2 splitter for the small 40mm USB fan and USB pigtails for the orange power on led indicator.

Edit 2:
VERSION 2 FILES NOW AVAILABLE!

The colors in the file names are obviously just a suggestion, but should also help to identify parts by name.

gcBase_MSD: for users who just want to use raspberry pi 5 and their data stored on a Micro SD card. A new bolt hole has been added on the bottom front. To avoid banding from speed changes I lowered the outer and inner wall print speed by 50%.

gcBase_SSD: for users who want to use the X1100 SSD shield for expanded storage options. A new bolt hole has been added on the bottom front. To avoid banding from speed changes I lowered the outer and inner wall print speed by 50%.

gcLid: jewel insert slot in the top has been deepened to make room for gcJewel to make it easier to apply custom stickers/labels. Near the back the slots for the M3 nuts have been rotated sideways and made slightly smaller. I used a pair of adjustable pliers to convince mine to insert. To make life easier, print this part upside down on a smooth build plate with no supports.

gcFront_purple: the base of this part has been lowered to better reach the bolt hole at the bottom front of either gcBase you choose, and a little lip has been added for attaching an M3 nut. I printed this standing straight up with branch supports.

gcFront_gray: this part remains unchanged I printed this standing up to keep the rounded areas smoother. The rounded areas looks rougher if you lay it flat.

gcHandle: this part remains unchanged. This part prints best on a smooth build plate with the largest flat section snapped down, and aligned rectilinear selected.

gcLedLens: this part remains unchanged.

gcJewel: this is a new part, it's made to fit in the slot in the top of the lid to more easily attach stickers and labels to brand your device.