Update 7/18/2021: After a few years and many desert trips, I noticed that the mount had a little droop to it. Not major, but filament is relatively cheap, so I redesigned this to add some ribbing to prevent this. I also made it thicker, and changed my print settings to use 4 walls, with infill still at 100%. I previously printed this with all walls, and I noticed on one side, there was a slight delamination right at the center. Using an internal lines pattern would connect the outer walls much better, and this pattern also changes directions at each layer, so it should result in a much stronger bond. With the ribs on there, this thing is bulletproof, but it now requires that you use some supports for the front side ribbing. Print it as oriented in the STL, where the main rib is touching the build plate on its side, but add supports for the other side rib, and the little small one in the middle. I also recommend that you enable "Draft Shield" in Cura, to ensure the best results. I reprinted this with 3DSolutech Black ABS, 110C bed, 245 nozzle, on my Ender 3. See the print photo of my last iteration for a look at the orientation.

This is a mount designed to hold a circuit breaker for a Warn VR Evo 10S winch on 2018 or newer Jeep JL or JLU Wrangler. I chose a Buss MRCB 200A DC Circuit Breaker for this application. This is a very adequate size for handling the expected 350A DC Load that the Winch will draw based on the trip time graphs for this thermal breaker.

I designed this to mount using an existing hole and tab that happens to be in the JL passenger fender. It is designed to wedge under that tab and has an upward knob that will hold it in place. For added stability, use a washer and self tapping screw onto that knob to fully secure it to the vehicle. You can also use some 3M VHB tape at the bottom for added stability if you use a big breaker like the one I did. In the end, I ended up using a single self tapping screw on the side because I didn't have any VHB tape, and in extreme off-roading, I wondered if there could be a way for this to rotate. So, once I decided I really like this mount and it survived a few trips off-road, I drilled that second screw in there to make it extremely secure.

The mount is extremely solid despite its size. It will hold the weight of the breaker and cables and survive vibrations.

Print in ABS or ASA or a material that can withstand the engine bay temperatures. I used ABS, and printed this solid. Maximum walls, 100% infill, printed on its side with no supports needed.

I've tested this mount off road over day long trips on several trails, and it holds up great. This allows me to just flip the breaker ON when I am going off-road, and then leave it OFF when I am not on trails. My concern was always having large gauge wires directly connected to the battery that could get pinched and cause a disaster in an accident. With this setup, that is not a worry.

This is the exact breaker I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CVT3SF6&pd_rd_r=8af51a54-c62d-4f19-a954-f05e9a7ad358&pd_rd_w=3waoc&pd_rd_wg=cfSrz&pf_rd_p=4164145e-19ed-48eb-989f-3dda95c0f33d&pf_rd_r=25JV8AK80KBXMQ660Z5Q&refRID=25JV8AK80KBXMQ660Z5Q&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=integroverla-20&linkId=6b255dabe167b56e1597891f0168c08d&language=en_US
Use 2AWG wire to run it to the battery. I bought this pre-made 2AWG wire in 18 inches: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CVT3SF6&pd_rd_r=8af51a54-c62d-4f19-a954-f05e9a7ad358&pd_rd_w=3waoc&pd_rd_wg=cfSrz&pf_rd_p=4164145e-19ed-48eb-989f-3dda95c0f33d&pf_rd_r=25JV8AK80KBXMQ660Z5Q&refRID=25JV8AK80KBXMQ660Z5Q&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=integroverla-20&linkId=6b255dabe167b56e1597891f0168c08d&language=en_US I also tried the 12" wire but it was too short to adequately run it and not have it cross the top of the battery. So I recommend at least 18-20 inches. I included some pictures of the final setup for reference.