The file 'IKEA Lack Enclosure For Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Model' is (stl) file type, size is 1.2MB.
Hello,
I have remixed the "Woody1978" corner's files in order to make my own IKEA Lack enclosure.
This enclosure is designed to have the power supply outside the box.
List of accessories shown in the picture:
Spool holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4385300
Filament guide:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3497633
Extruder knob:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3109769
Filament roller guide:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488
Anti-snag endcap:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4404123
Led frame:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485467
Compact handle:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390102
Pressure fitting clip:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
Board fan guard:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204
Cable clips:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375
LCD Cover:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433735
Cable holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3034224
Micro-SD card holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4458209
Option list for this enclosure:
Tool holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4475769
Temperature and moisture sensor module :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631069
Hinges with no bearing balls:
Available soon !
Electrical distribution raceway:
Available soon !
Bill of matérials:
Assembly instructions:
I have taken Pattex Polymer glue to stick each corners to the IKEA Lack board.
I recommand to use multiple clamps to position each corners with accuracy.
First of all you need the glue the eight corners to the boards regarding the drawing attached.
When glue is dry, you can drill screws (to be honest the IKEA board is an hollow profile, and when drilling there is no matter. Thoses screw can be considered as pins.)
Then you can screw the feets of the ikea table to the bottom part (rember to also use clamps for this step in order to make sure the feet is correctly positionned in his housing).
No needs of glue here because the screw is drilling in a plain part.
And then do the same thing for the top part.
Once done, cut your plexiglass windows by taking measure directly on the enclosure hull. (You can also back drilling directly on the enclosure to be sure to have the correct gap between holes).
You can now assembly the power supply to the "Power_supply_fixture.stl" with the original CHC M4x20mm screw.
Before mounting the power supply to the hull, you will need to extend the wire lenght.
Make sure to pass the wire trough the corner before mounting the power supply.(The connector can't pass in the hole.)
Once done, put those two things in the S-E Corner, and lock them with 2 self drilling screws (See attached drawings.)
You can now construct the doors panels, (See attached drawings), the left and right doors are the same, you juste have to make a 180° rotation.
Once done, use the constructed door panels to cut and drill the plexiglass.
You now have just to set the top and bottom door stop, use the line marker on the part to align the door stop in the middle. You can use double side tape (with this you can replace the door stop if it is bad positionned.)
I hope you enjoy it !
BOTTOM_N-E_CORNER.stl | 220.3KB | |
BOTTOM_S-E_CORNER.stl | 387.5KB | |
BOTTOM_S-W_CORNER.stl | 290.8KB | |
Door_Handle.stl | 938.9KB | |
Door_part-4-5.stl | 73.3KB | |
Door_part1.stl | 128.0KB | |
Door_part2-6.stl | 39.4KB | |
Door_part3.stl | 88.9KB | |
Door_part7.stl | 89.3KB | |
Door_part8.stl | 127.4KB | |
Enclosure_Door_stop.stl | 855.4KB | |
Enclosure_Power_supply_fixture.stl | 143.4KB | |
TOP_AND_BOTTOM_N-W_CORNER.stl | 216.5KB | |
TOP_N-E_CORNER.stl | 220.0KB | |
TOP_S-E_CORNER.stl | 294.6KB | |
TOP_S-W_CORNER.stl | 291.1KB |