Whoever holds this Hammer, be they worthy, shall posses the powers of Thor!

This is an ambitious build. I set out to model Mjolnir in my own way with an ode to some of the things I really like about the MCU version. My main caveat was that I wanted to use as little support and post-processing as necessary.

Printing and Assembly Tips:

• The head has been designed to be huge. The print volume was designed around a Bambu P1S and the head basically takes up the entire bottom of the 256 x 256 bed. For a really really well tuned printer, you can possibly get away with no supports on the bottom. The two angles are 35 degrees and 45 degrees. I needed supports on the 35 degree angles; your mileage may vary. I used something like 5 walls and 5% gyroid and this was approximately 960 grams of filament. So you basically get one shot. The print time was about 24 hours. For me, I do not require supports on threaded overhangs (just on the large 90 degree overhang in the middle. Note: my supports failed for this overhang but still ended up printing well enough to screw in the base.

• For the rune insert decorations, I printed these in a darker grey color to give some nice visual contrast. These are easy to print, and you will need 8 of them. I have given some clearance so that these should fit in all slots, but this may not be the case, depending on your printer. Because of this, I suggest to print one and see how many slots it fits it, then print that many more and then scale down or up the insert to fit in any additional slots. I used a little bit of CA glue to adhere these in the slots.

• The handle ribbing pieces are both for visual design as well to hide and help bind where the individual handle pieces come together. When printing, the entire underside will need supports. This bottom will be hidden and I designed some clearance here to account for the bottom being quite ugly. Ten (10) of these pieces will need to be printed. The support removal for this is the worst part of this build. To remove some of the sharpness from the underside, I used a butane torch to smooth them out.

• The design is unique in that everything else screws together.

  • The body plug should print fine without supports. Once printed, thread this all the way in.

  • The inner handle needs supports on the overhang (I printed threads down so the top filet did not need supports), but that should be it. Once this is printed, slide this into the body and thread it into body plug--this will bind the hammer head plug and handle together. My clearance was perfect in that both the plug and the inner handle screwed in and touched the body. If the clearance is not perfect, you may need to sand or use some leftover brim material to make a shim. Do not over-torque the inner handle as 3d printed threads can be easily broken with too much torque. Note: Although probably not required, I do like to permanently adhere all pieces using CA glue. In this case I add a little CA to the bottom threads (after checking fit).

  • For the handle parts, there are two different pieces. The bottom piece will only need to be printed once. The difference is that the threading is longer to account for threading into the inner handle section. The other parts will require ten (10) pieces. I printed these thread up and no supports. The pommel needs a little support on the bridge opening, but tree supports here come off very easily. Slow down your bridge, as this is quite long.

  • Once the inner handle and plug are connected and the handle pieces are printed, finally assembly can happen. What I found worked the best was to dry fit everything together to make sure there are no issues with threading or the grey pieces fitting between the threads. After this, finalize one piece at a time from the bottom up. Do not over-tighten as it is not necessary.

  • Add a little CA glue to the threading and thread in the handle body bottom piece to the inner handle.

  • Put a little CA glue on the bottom of one handle ribbing and place it down on top of the handle body piece and line it up where you desire. This is where the option comes in on where to set the ribbing. I lined them up the perpendicular to the head. It can be done any way, but is probably best to be consistent.

  • Put a little CA glue on the thread of the next handle piece and screw it into the handle piece below it. When almost fully tightened, make sure to hold the handle ribbing below it in place so it does not move. While holding firmly, tighten until finger tight.

  • Let it set for a few seconds and move on to the next rib and then the next handle piece. Repeat this alternating pattern until the last handle piece.

  • The pommel then threads into the the last handle piece. Alignment here may not be perfect do to clearance stacking. For me, I had to use use a small leftover brim and a small amount of CA glue on the threads to add enough thickness to have it line up correctly.

I have also added an stl of the entire hammer fit together. This prints really well and looks really cool as something small on your desk or as a keychain.