https://youtu.be/dmA2klMfwJw

Hello all. This is a 100% original design by myself. I spent time learning Blender while making this. It's easier to learn a new application when you have a goal. I was using 123Design forever.

This is a a BIG print. It is 18'' Tall, 15'' Wide and 6" Deep. It was printed on an Anycubic Kobra Max 400x400x450.

The outer ring (1 piece) is 365mm wide. I have included split parts for the outer and middle rings.

For large printers:
(1) Outer Ring
(1) Middle Ring
(1) Inner Ring
(2) of each Diffusor sizes
(1) Support Ring Top
(1) Support Ring Bottom
(1) Base
(1) Base Cover
(1) Base Pins
(1) Support Pin

For Smaller Printers:
(2) Outer Ring 1
(2) Outer Ring 2
(2) Middle Ring Half
(1) Inner Ring
(2) of each Diffusor sizes
(1) Support Ring Top
(1) Support Ring Bottom
(1) Base
(1) Base Cover
(1) Base Pins
(1) Support Pin

Required parts:
(6) Pairs of 3.5mm extension cables: https://amzn.to/3yR8Rek
(1) D1 Mini : https://amzn.to/3LvRebv

Parts I Used, feel free to find cheaper brands or different colors. I buy larger quantities as i make a lot of lamps.

WS2812B LED roll : https://amzn.to/3YYEJZ1
5pk 10ft USB Cable : https://amzn.to/3JxrUzn
5pk USB Wall Charger 2.1A: https://amzn.to/3LB1fEh
Hatchbox Marble PLA : https://amzn.to/3Jo1Mqq
Overture Clear PetG: https://amzn.to/3JvytCe
22ga 3wire roll : https://amzn.to/40hGRMG

Print all the pieces for your desired printer size.

SUPPORTS REQUIRED! I used 15% support infill and 88degree angle to ensure the inset where the diffusors sit will get supported and prevent support inside the holes. Anything below 88% will ignor the inset. I included a photo of where to put SUPPORT BLOCKERS. You do not want support behind these blocks, as it's a PITA to remove.

Each ring is connected to the next by the 3.5mm jacks, which allow stable connection and rotation. I included a wiring diagram and connector diagram. Most LED packs from amazon come with a small controller. I use this all the time to quickly test my strips. For this, i wired up a FEMALE connector to my tester, so i could connect to my strips at every turn to test. I'd highly recommend doing this, it's so much easier.

For this project we start with the inner ring and build outward.

INNER RING:

FOLLOW THE DIAGRAM

Size and cut 2 strips for the inner ring, each just short of the holes for the connectors. The 3.5mm jacks have 2 diameters on the rubber part, you will need to shave this off all around to match the 8.5mm diameter. Test fit into the hole each time you trim to get a good tight fit, but can still remove to solder and reposition.

Cut wire about 1'' from 1 MALE connector and strip back the wires. Solder the 5vDataGND from the connector to the LED strip…Make sure DATA direction is pointing toward the end of the next strip (this is the end of the entire line). Test fit the strip and measure for wire length at the other end, to connect to the next strip. Solder wires connecting both strips.

Press the MALE connector through one hole until you have 4mm of rubber protruding the other side. Peel back adhesive strip from LED strip and mount both strips. Insert second MALE connector into the other hole from the outside (strip connecting wires will block it from coming in too far).

Test your led strips to make sure they light up. Now set aside.

MIDDLE RING:

FOLLOW THE DIAGRAM

Very similar to the Inner Ring, but now we're using the female connector as well. See diagram for femalemale placements. The Middle and Outer ring have INNER blocks and OUTER blocks where the connectors go. The INNER block has an opening to allow the led strip to slide behind it along with the wire to return back to next connector. So both the MIDDLE and INNER rings only need 2 long LED strip.

Wiring is the same, make sure DATA direction is leading toward the inner ring connection. Cut, solder and place the 2 led strips to a MALE connector. For the end of this strip, you'll need to use a FEMALE connector. Cut extension wire right at the male end, leaving no wire (used for the dummy connections). You now have a FEMALE connector with 10 12'' of wire. This is plenty for the return lead from the end of the LED strip to the female connector that leads to the INNER ring. Use some hot glue to keep the wire in place so it doesn't move and block any of the LEDs.

Test your led strips to make sure they light up. Now set aside.

OUTER RING:

FOLLOW DIAGRAM

Exact same procedure as the middle ring.

Test your led strips to make sure they light up. Now set aside.

BASE & SUPPORT ARM:

You will have printed 2 round pins and 1 square pin. Pretty easy to figure out where these go :D Because edges don't always print flat, i sanded the edges that will be glued together to ensure a flatter surface for adhesion.

Glue the 2 pins into the Support Bottom. Using the square pin, glue the support top and bottom together. Then glue the assembled Support Arm to the Base.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Start with the INNER ring and MIDDLE ring. The LIVE MALE connector on the INNER can be moved inward to allow the ring to fit into the MIDDLE ring. Plug the dummy male connector into the female dummy connector on the middle ring. Align the LIVE male connector to the LIVE female connector on the MIDDLE ring and push the male connector until it clicks. TEST your strips, by connecting your tester to the LIVE MALE connector on the middle ring. Sping you inner ring and make sure it spins well and stays connected.

Now, repeat that process with the MIDDLE ring connecting to the OUTER ring. Test your strips again.

Once you have all 3 rings connected and tested and it all works and spins, you can now attach to the support arm. Push a dummy FEMALE connector into the top of the support arm. Connect the DUMMY MALE connector of the OUTER ring to this.

Push a DUMMY female connector through the BASE until it's flush. Align the LIVE male connector on the outer ring with the base and slowly push the FEMALE connector up until it clicks. that the outer ring spins well.

Now to setup your D1 Mini and install WLED:

If you've never done this before, here is a great tutorial on installing WLED

https://youtu.be/GYxctjukehY

Once you have WLED installed, it's time to wire it to the FEMALE connector in the base. Take your USB cable, run it through the hole in the base. Give yourself about 6 inches of lead. I like to tie a tight knot in the cable to prevent it from being pulled back through the hole. If you have hot glue, you can secure it more with that later.

Cut back and strip about 6 inches of wire from the USB cable. Strip the wires from the FEMALE connector. With your 5v, GND and DATA soldered to your D1, connect all 3 5v(red) wires together. Connect all 3 GND (blackuninsulated from connector) The Data from the D1 connects only to the FEMALE connector WHITE. That's all there is to it. At this point you can plug in the USB cable to turn on the D1 and WLED. Your lights will default to ORANGE and only light up like 20. You will be change those settings at any time (follow the video).

Once your WLED is running, and everything spins with no loss of connection, you can glue the base cover on. Tidy up any wires connecting the LED strips with hot glue, so they clear the diffusors.

Depending on your printer and how well the holes were printed and how you shaved the connectors down, you should be able to adjust the distance between all the rings by making sure all the connectors are spaced correctly. Once you push or pull them out so they're equally spaced, you can put a few dabs of super glue on each connector to secure to the ring.

Final assembly is to SNAP IN PLACE all your diffusors. They do not need to be glued as the tension between them will hold them in place.

You're finished.

Spend some time learning how to use WLED and enjoy your new Light.