I'm something of a 3d printer myself.

Do you hate spiders? Do you like cool tech? Do you like things that glow? Try Oscorp's newest spider deterrent technology; the pumpkin bomb.

I designed these myself using fusion and designed them in a way to be able to house a small LED and coin battery switch. I believe individual parts should fit in most printers. Below I have more information about printing and assembly.

For the lights I used a Pico sized cool white LED powered by a small switch and coin cell battery: https://evandesigns.com/products/chip-light-kit?variant=6762997252144

Printing Tips

• For the main body, print these dome side up with tree supports at at a threshold angle of 45 degrees. For me, the tree supports came off with almost no scarring. Please note that the file size for these is very large. This is because each section in the model has an overlaid texture map that adds many and more triangles. When I first made these, it took approximately a half hour to just repair the non-manifold edges. The stls I have uploaded are already repaired, but may take a while to import and process. I did not use and supports for the relief cuts on the rim as bridging should be fine here. For the color, I used silk red-copper PLA. The bodies are mirrors of each other, so they are different and both must be printed separately to line up correctly.

• For the inner spheres, these are also easily printed with tree supports and a threshold angle of 45 degrees. The top is easy to print and requires no special instructions. The bottom requires a bit more support due to the flat overhang. My printer does not need supports on threads. The top section I used 0.08 mm layer height to achieve a top as smooth as possible. For these I used transparent green PLA.

• The top and bottom dials I believe may be interchangeable, but they might have slightly different clearances, and I could not confirm this in my timeline. For best results, try to keep these separate and know which is the top and which is the bottom. Because the top of each dial is more important visually, I printed the flat part of the dial up. This method requires support and brim on the bottom, but this is hidden inside, so I did not worry about any potential support scarring. Tree supports are needed underneath the dial tips, but they should come off easily and not affect the fit. For these I used black PLA.

• The bottom cover prints dome up and requires tree supports for the overhang (not the thread in my case) and up in the hollow center. Due to the curve, higher layer heights here result in less than ideal smoothness. I used 0.08 mm layer height to give the most smoothness possible. Color should match the color of the main body.

• The main body halves and inner body halves both have connectors to help line up the prints for attachment. The main body will need nine and the inner will need four. Depending on your printer's tolerance, you may be required to shave these down a little. I printed extra as well because they can break easily or be lost easily. In general nine were not needed, but the holes are already part of the model.

Assembly Instructions

• The first step after cleaning the supports is to do a dry fitting of all pieces:
• First ensure that the screw base screws into the bottom inner sphere.
• Next ensure that the top of the inner top sphere and the bottom screw can easily be pushed through the dials. This is imperative because the clearance needed to be tight, but if it is too tight you risk popping off the dial after it is set in place. If the fit is too tight, you may need to sand this a little.
• Ensure connector pieces fit into slots easily enough to get them out if needed. If too loose, then glue will be required. If too tight, they may need to be shaved down some.

• If using the lights, ensure that the LED fits through the bottom of the inner sphere (coin battery holder and switch should easily fit inside).

• Permanently bond the top and bottom dials to the top and bottom main body pieces. Here I used a dab of superglue in each the main body cavities and then placed the dial into place. I held until it felt secure and then let these cure overnight while laying on the top face (it is flat, so should work easily). Curing is important so that the inner sphere pieces do not pop these off later.

• Bond the inner spheres together. You can do this permanently, or just try to use the connectors. I used a bit superglue to ensure the pieces stayed together.

• Permanently bond the bottom of the top dial to the top of the inner sphere. This is important so the inner sphere is not freely floating inside the larger one (since the dial should already be attached to the main body, this will permanently bond all 3 pieces together (four if you count the bottom sphere). The top dial bottom face is cut curved to fit against the top of the top inner sphere. A little glue on either of both surfaces and press fit together works well. Here I let it cure for 24 hours before continuing. When pressing into place, make sure to hold the dial down so it does not break free from the main body.

• Screw in the bottom cover to the bottom inner sphere (no glue necessary)
• If using lights you must set up the LED to work by wiring the switch and installing the battery
  Snake the LED into the inner sphere and then place the switch facing down into the bottom cover so the button can protrude through the bottom hole.

• I found it was easiest to permanently glue the switch in place. This can be difficult and you risk messing up the soldering if you mess with this too much (ask me how I know). In the end, the fitment here could be better, but this was gift on a short timeline. I found it was best to first place the switch, then use tweezers to pull the switch down into position. After that glue the edges of the switch in place and wait. After, pack some material down over the switch to better hold it in place. Then place the battery cell holder facing vertically so it will press down on that material and switch. Above the battery, pack enough material so everything stays perfectly tight when screwed in. For the material foam, packing paper, or bubble wrap all should work.

• Depending on the tolerance of your bottom piece and the dial, you may not ever be able to unscrew this through the dial. If you want to make sure this is possible (like to replace the LED or the battery in the future), you need to make sure the fitment allows for the piece to have no resistance from the dial. This fitment should be done before any gluing. I would suggest to sand the inside part of the dial.

• The final step is to connect the top and bottom main pieces. This can be done permanently or just using the inserts. To add extra stability you can also add some glue to the bottom of the bottom dial which will touch the inner sphere and make a more permanent connection on both ends.

Finally, I have added an display box which has been inlaid with Oscorp logos (along with an insert that can be printed in a different color). The inner part of this box I printed out of TPU to give a fitted and soft textured place to hold three of these. Finally, I have also uploaded a single display stand as well.