Update 16 Sep 2016 As user "FernandoGarcia" and I also found, the pressure of the spring could cause the thin heated bed to bow down slightly. This is not a big problem because I print on glass and the glass does not bow, but this could lead to the edges of the glass not heating properly. The original model, had a support underneath but was difficult to clean up as it needed supports. So for those printing the newer version, you can also print 4 of these - bbSpringClampFixer.stl and glue them to the bottom before fixing as shown. No supports needed. This will force the PCB bed up to the glass. Also if the height difference is too much, just sand the bottom of bbSpringClampNewVersion.stl to get closer tolerance and fit more snugly(see image)
Update 24 Aug 2016 As user "piggei" suggested, here is a newer version. Not As nice looking but much stronger and easier to print. No supports needed as well. Just print 4 as is(upside down) and fix as usual right side up.
Update - 23/06/2016 - Added the Sketchup files for modding as per users request. Note that the STL's from these models are not manifold. After modding, use netfabb or some online service to "Fix" the STL before printing.
Saw these and decided to modify them to suit my printer. These clips now fit the Geeetech Aluminium printer which has a Borosilicate 3mm glass plate over the MK2A heat bed.
They also facilitate removal of the glass for cleaning/removing stuck prints without disturbing the bed level.
The spring effect keeps the glass in place without moving and is pretty easy to slip the glass back in place.
Also no more problems with the head banging on the clips etc. as this is designed to be level with the glass.
| bbSpringClamp.stl |
| bbSpringClampFixer.skp |
| bbSpringClampFixer.stl |
| bbSpringClampNewVersion.skp |
| bbSpringClampNewVersion.stl |
| bbSpringClampSketchup-See-readmeTXT.zip |
