Do you need to connect two circular ports/pipes together in a workshop? (usually for dust collection)

Do you use a CAD program capable of opening f3d (Fusion) files?

Are you a new or relatively lazy/efficient Fusion360 user? (Or could be convinced to sign up for a free account?)

Have you ever resorted to tape in connecting two differing sized pipes together in your dust extraction system?

Do you want to create custom dust port (or just plain old pipe/conduit) adaptor for ANY (and I do mean, ANY) sized CIRCULAR ports/pipes you may have?

Want all that, and be able to put a bend into it?

Yeah, me too. That's why I made this. :-)

WAIT A MINUTE, HAVEN'T I SEEN THIS BEFORE? ISN'T THIS LIKE MY OTHER ADAPTOR MODEL?

Now this is an extension on my non-bending parametric model, found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6445290

I also have a gentler bending (still parametric) model found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6491622

The other model has a simpler construction (so less parameters to break) and if a straight adaptor is good enough for you, then I recommend it. That said, you can do that with this one too, by setting the bend to zero degrees.

FIRSTLY:

YOU NEED TO USE THE F3D FILE. DO NOT USE THE STL FILE - IT HAS NO PARAMETRIC CAPABILITY AT ALL. HOWEVER THINGIVERSE WON'T LET ME SHARE UNLESS I HAVE AT LEAST ONE COMPATIBLE FORMAT... (Yes, I've contacted the admins about it).

WHY USE THIS MODEL?

Streamline any major transition with your dust extraction:

I've designed quite a few adaptors to attach circular tool dust ports (of several sizes) to certain, differently-sized circular shop vac handles, and hose ends. This is great if you just want to download a file and print without any tweaks. However, it seems there's always a slightly different sized port on a new tool, (or I may have to change everything when I get a new dust extractor/shop vac) so I just want to measure it, plug that measurement in, decide what I'm connecting it to, and plug that measurement in. Then all I need to do is export and slice that file to get it printed. I don't want to HAVE to create a new model every time..

Designed to connect on the OUTSIDE of any pipe/port you connect for maximum airflow. If that doesn't suit your needs, you can easily factor in the wall thickness of either/both ends to taper it for the inside diameter if you wish, just remember that you can enter formulas into dimensions using the parameter names too in Fusion, so you won't need a calculator :~). If you do so, you'll need to REVERSE the taper so that the socket is narrower than the diameter further in. Speaking of taper... using the model "as is" for the outer diameters....

This has tapered sockets so you insert both the tool's dust port, and whatever pipework INTO the respective ends of this adaptor, and get a nice friction fit and decent seal.

Near complete customisation!

Connecting something to a long shop vac handle and want a gentler taper? No problem!

Tweak the wide end of the socket, the narrow end, and adjust the distance between! If you prefer to connect something to a hose attachment (notoriously shorter tapers needed for a good fit) then again, tweak the wide and narrow end of the socket, then choose a suitable distance in between!

Just want/need a longer or shorter adaptor to get between two points? Choose a longer or shorter distance between each major diameter. As long as your printer has enough build volume, you should be good (or you can build several parts and tailor them to connect to each other.. just try to minimise the joins ok? The ridges caused by the joins reduce airflow.... which is why you should use the shortest flex hoses in your dust extraction, given that the spiral coil is "rich" in ridges. :-)

Used to sanding hard edges to make connections easier? Well I've added fillets on both the internal/external edges of both ends of the adaptor.

Want the best possible airflow and/or smoother exterior?

I've included even more fillets for every edge to minimise drag on the airflow inside, as well as the outside to ensure adequate material thickness throughout without any "cut corners".

WHY WOULDN'T YOU USE THIS MODEL?

Without a CAD app capable of handling F3D files, you won't get much out of this.

You need to customize the model to your needs. It won't work in a simple download > slice > print process.... It's more download > TWEAK > slice > print. So if you're not confident with Fusion360, you'll need to read my step-by-step instructions below.

It's limited to circular pipes and ports. While most ports are circular, and this will be widely compatible with many tools.... There's a TON of tools with oddly shaped dust ports on them (My DeWalt electric planer for example... it's amongst my other designs). Also, there are no wacky notches and recesses found on this adaptor either... so Festool sander users won't like this much, either.

The bend, while useful, isn't great for tighter corners. Tighter angles can cause drag on your airflow, so I highly recommend keeping the angle as low as practically possible.

HOW DO I USE THE F3D FILE?

Open the f3d file in Fusion360. While in "Design mode"..

Hit the FX button > user parameters

....Don't see an FX button? Don't panic!

If you've got a custom toolbar layout, or you're not using full-screen/maximised window (or just have a low-res screen) then the FX button may well be hidden from view. In that case:

Click: solid > modify > parameters > user parameters

...and adjust/enter the values as needed. The parameter names are explained in my uploaded image.

Simply enter your (carefully measured and noted) measurements for the EXTERIOR of your respective dust port/pipe. Adjust the diameters of all four points on the adaptor, and adjust the size of any fillets to taste.

Once you're happy with the model....

Then I just right click on the body name (in the browser section on the left side of the screen) then select export mesh > save that as an STL/3MF/whatever, and slice it up accordingly using your slicer software of choice.

Please note: If you're a user of the original AnkerMake slicer instead of the beta AnkerMake Studio which is Prusa Slicer based, then please note you should export as STL because the AnkerMake slicer app doesn't handle 3MF files. PrusaSlicer and Cura based slicer users should be fine with 3MF files.

IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS?

The parameters should be self-explanatory, please see the included diagram...but to ensure your success, I'll add some suggestions here and there:

For the wider end of both sockets, I usually like to add between 0.3mm and 0.5mm to whatever outside diameter the pipe/port has to ensure it can work around whatever I have. Remember, you can extend the distance between the narrow and wide sections of each taper to make it gentler, or merely set a smaller difference between the diameters... if you're confident your measurements are indeed, accurate. (Don't worry, we've all made that mistake, hehe).

For the narrower end of both sockets, I usually like the end diameter to be between 0.2mm and 0.4mm SMALLER than my measurements, to ensure a good seal, and tight friction fit. It also can clamp down on any worn/narrower parts in the future.

MORE ADVANCED USES:

If you're adjusting the adaptor to go INSIDE a dust port (not recommended since it restricts airflow, but if you really want to..) then the "opening" end, will need to become the narrower one, and the "taper diameter" end will need to be the wider one. (reverse the taper direction so it gets wider further in, this can be a little confusing, so keep notes for clarity's sake, don't be afraid to draw a rough picture, it WILL help you). Remember to deduct the wall thickness TWICE from BOTH the "wider" and the "narrower" measurements of each appropriate socket. (Chances are, you'll only need to do this for one end, but you can do both if needed).

Why twice?

The four major circular dimensions are DIAMETER measurements for the HOLE inside the adaptor (walls are not included). Conversely, the wall thickness is merely radius, so this is why the wall thickness needs to deducted twice.

Is this only for pipe work?

You can also use this to make a funnel, and my better half thinks the green rendered "wonky upside-down funnel" would be a great hat for Tin Man in the Wizard of Oz... so if you have a school play coming up?

PRO TIP:

If you're doing the "inside" variant, Fusion offers text boxes to specify numeric values to dimensions... but you can also enter formulas using the parameter names as variables for full parametric adjustability. So you don't need to bust the old calculator/iphone/abacus/whatever out to do this stuff.

BE CAREFUL CHOOSING THE ANGLE OF THE BEND!

Sharp corners should be avoided in dust extraction pipe work. They significantly increase drag and reduce the airflow. So two 45 degree corners are actually better than one 90 degree bend. The gentler, the better.. and now if you have a wacky angle, you can set it from zero (completely straight adaptor) to 45, or anything in between without issues... at least from my initial testing.

Now, I've put a lot of fillets on both the inside and outside of the adaptor to reduce drag on the airflow. However, if you put a tight bend in the adaptor, then some of the edges will disappear and warnings/errors will ensue. If there's a problem, simply set them to a 0.1mm radius, to solve the issue, then slowly increase to taste (or until the errors come back).

Anyway, let me know if you have any feedback, suggestions for weird and wacky uses, or issues...

Enjoy!
Ham.