08th August 2024
This is a "Work In Progress" so things are subject to changes.

Compact Formicarium:
Comprising:

Side walls with attached corridors, user operated sliding doors for external connection, and internal sliding doors to expand the size as your colony grows without having to add more to the build.

Lid with open viewing area of approximately 100x150x20mm, facilitating clear sliding perspex with a thickness between 1.5mm - 3.0mm.

To secure all components you simply need some 1.75mm filament. I would currently suggest using a little UHU glue for the cotton wool humidity tray, but if your tolerances are tight then you shouldn't need glue for anything else, just friction fit push in.

The base is designed to sit flat, and has multiple 'layers/room/floors' that has doors the user opens as the size of the nest grows and more ants are produced.

There are two external attachment points. Initially your test tube will attach to one side so your Queen/colony can move from the test tube to the enclosure, a test tube attachment is included in the design for 14mm tubes. If other sizes exist message me and I'll add them. Inside the external attachments points are sliding doors, this is so you can close the port and detach the external item (food/water/ants) with less worry about ants escaping,

Tools you may need:
Tolerances on this print are tight as ants find a way out of anywhere if they can, so you will likely need the following:
Crafters knife.
Small side cutters.
File (nail-file or just scrape some edges).
Slicer program, 3D printer & 1.75mm Filament
Perspex 100x150mm with a thickness of 1mm - 3mm.
Some red cellophane to make the ants feel they are in the ground/dark.
Optional UHU glue.
Optional 1.0mm drill bit.
Optional 1.75mm drill bit.

CONSTRUCTION:
(I will make a video to help with this build)

1. Print all the parts, paying attention to needing to the extra doors you will need as in their filenames. I suggest using 'Tree' supports where they are needed.

2. Depending on your print quality and settings, you may need to drill out many holes. There are two distinct hole sizes. 1mm (air holes) and 1.75mm (humidiry and fixing holes).

3. Ensure the doors fit and slide in their channels/pockets. The three internal doors with holes go in the tunnels (the holes designed to allow air flow from the back of the build to the front). And the two doors to block of the test tube ports must have their tabs away from the port openings. These are all tight fitting doors, so may need some light sanding or scraping, especially if your prints have elephant feet.

4. Ensure the test tube attachment and the test tube blocker cover are a snug fit, both in the frame and in accepting a test tube. You should also be able to remove a test tube and put a test tube cap on the hole to double block the attachment.

5. Take your 150x100 perspex and ensure it sits in the lip of the main frame. Then as a dry run, ensure the perspex hold down frame sits in well. Pay attention to ensuring this frame has the holes in the short side at the rear, and all holes match up to the ones below. Once your happy, remove the frame and perspex.

6. Take the test tube port blocker and the test tube port blocker handle, ensure the hole in both parts is 1.75mm, and insert a small length of filament into the handle, cut it to about 4mm longer, then push it into the larger piece. It should be a friction fit and both parts hold together well. This is the principle we will use to join many other parts.

...to be continued when I get time.