Features

• Fits into V-slot extrusion
• Two sizes: SHORT and TALL (with and without threaded brass insert)
• Big contact areas for reliable printing
• Only needs one tiny little support
• Does not need dinky little screws to hold the camera
• Compact, simple and strong
• Quick robust build
• Good view of bed, especially first layers
• Universal design works with old (square) and new (round-corner) Pi Cams
• Keeps Y-tensioner fully accessible
• UPDATE: added CAMERA BRACKET TALL LONG for people who want to keep their spring-steel bed-handle at the front (I just put mine at the back).

What You'll Need

• Raspberry Pi Module 2 camera https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/camera-module-v2/
• Or a new Module 3 one https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/camera-module-3/
• 457mm/18” camera cable (black, of course) https://www.adafruit.com/product/2143
• One M3 capscrew 16-30mm long for the self tapped version, or...
• One M3 brass insert for the "INSERT" version, an M3 x 16mm capscrew, and a washer.
• M4 x 8mm capscrew and M4 T-nut to mount to the Ender’s frame (I used the ones from the redundant Z stop after installing the BL-Touch); you’ll probably have something sitting around, if not try this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607
• Designed to work with the Ender 3 v2 Hidden OctoPi Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5201485

ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

• After printing, run a fine file over the top layers of both parts being careful not to round the edges. This removes any peaks that will stop the parts sitting perfectly against each other.
• Install the camera cable in the camera before installing it in the mount: the contacts face the board (towards the lens) and towards the SD card on the RasPi. The contacts are on different sides of the cable, so pick which side you want the printing on the cable to be on (suggest facing the printer), then install the cable in the camera and work you way back to the RasPi.
• If you’re using the Hidden OctoPi Mount after installing the camera cable in the Pi, run the camera cable about 30mm past the USB/ethernet sockets then kink forward through 45 degrees to create a neat 90 degree bend (see pic).
• Clean out the screw hole with a 2.5mm drill and tap with M3, or you can be an animal and just screw it together without tapping the hole, or...
• Use a soldering iron to melt the brass insert into place, making sure it does not protrude above the surface.
• Slide the camera into the frame, add the cover, then insert the screw and tighten.
• Install the assembly in the extrusion’s lower slot using the M4 screw and slot-nut. If you install it in the upper slot it will limit the forward movement of the bed.
• Focus the lens with the very user-unfriendly tool that comes with the camera … totally worth it.

Notes

• Tested on an Ender 3 v2, but it should fit other printers as well: please let me know so I can updated info and/or tweak the design to suit.
• The black camera module (lens & sensor) is mounted on the PCB with self adhesive foam, so no two cameras point in the exact same direction…