Update: I have include the main body combined vertically and spliced horizontally. This part should be printed with the top (handle up) against the plate. I have included a 5mm peg for combining the spliced portions together.

A model of Cal Kestis's LW-896 blaster from Star Wars: Jedi Survivor. This model is based on in game screenshots taken from many angles using the games photo mode. I've tried my best to keep proportion accurate but there may be areas that are off. I've scaled the model to a Colt 1871 since the blaster has a very western feel to it. Also the octagon barrel of the blaster reminded of it. The barrel is scaled to 7.5 inches and everything followed from there.

This is my first pass at the model so there isn't much in the way of extras. Led pathways and working trigger are possible future additions. I have built the model with that as a plan but didn't have time to work out potential kinks.

I didn't model the wires under the cylinder since they would be near impossible to print well and real wire would look better anyways.

Yes, I know the Aurebesh is upside down and backwards. This is how it is ingame. Blame the original artist.

Model is divided into these parts:

• Main Body: From testing the combined body prints better for the smaller details. Print with the handle up and the top against the plate.
  There is also split version with a left and right portion. The only difference between the two is a small switch. Print flat side on the plate.
  WARNING: the diamond pattern on the grip is fairly fine and requires a low layer height to reasonably pull off. I suggest setting those layers to print finer then the rest of the body in your slicer to save time. Make sure to review the print preview before commiting. I am considering making it an alternative separate part for those with resin printers.
  Glue together

• Cylinder: This part needs its other half mirrored. The holes there to thread filament through. On the ingame model there rods are both ends that meet the neighboring parts. Rather then make a mess attempting to print fine rod ends, I figured using filament would be a simpler and easier method to get the same result. There is a peg on the bottom that inserts into the main body for mounting.

• Barrel Shroud, Rifled Barrel, and Barrel rod: Both these parts are uncut and can be printed standing on end. Bed adhesion will be key for success since these part are so tall (180mm). The barrel shroud will need supports for the side holes and sight. The barrel shroud has an indent that aligns with a peg on the main body parts.
  The barrel rod could be printed with the top half towards the bed and some supports. This parts slides into the end of the barrel shroud. There is an indent at the end for alignment and glueing.

• Grip: I have include this part as a whole piece since I designed it to slip over the main body pieces. Grip screws are separate pieces for easier printing/painting different color.

• Circuit board: This part need printed twice with the second one being mirrored. Fine parts need low layer height for success. Align with indent on main body.

• Capsule things: Decorate parts that are seperated for printing/painting in other colors. Align with indent on main body parts.

• Capacitors and cover: These install on the end part where a hammer would be on a normal gun. The cover is suppose to be clear ingame. I have made it thin so that vase mode with a slow print in clear petg might be possible. But this will be a hard part to pull off well. Clear resin would be ideal for those with resin printers. The blaster should look fine without it since it is difficult to see in game unless the light is shining on it just right. I thought it was a rendering artifact the first couple times I screenshotted it.