I went in the same direction as the remix by Primer (thing 2765525) to join this model together in pieces, however with pegs and sockets. This model is 25cm tall, assembled.

I have repaired the mesh as well as sculpted behind the ears and raised hand to reduce overhangs. I added a sacrificial bridge between the back of the neck and the hair bun that you can cut out later with a box cutter.

I DID NOT INCLUDE ANY CLEARANCE FOR PART FITTING. Printers are so varied in their level of maintenance, material choice, firmware and print settings from one to the next. It would be difficult for me to choose something for everyone's situation. My suggestion is to print the legs and the base first. However, when slicing the base, use an XY compensation setting - I prefer Cura's horizontal hole expansion which looks for enclosed circular shapes in each layer, then applies an XY offset to them, effectively creating space for pegs to fit better into holes. Please reference the picture I included to find the setting under the Walls section in Cura (you may need to enable its appearance from config first). For most lower cost hobby printers that is usually 0.20mm. My direct drive setup worked well with 0.10mm. Next, if the legs fit snugly in the base, you can use this same value when printing the torso. As the only hole shapes in the torso will be under the skirt (including the socket in the abdomen), the hole horizontal expansion will not affect other geometry in the model. As a side bonus, doing it this way (of you calibrating your own clearance) allows the model to be scaled to any size and have a reliable, repeatable fit by just using the same XY/hole compensation values. I admit it is not beginner-friendly, but it is more flexible.

Supports are necessary still for the outstretched arm, chin and under the skirt. I have included a shape you can use in Cura as a support blocker to minimize the amount under the skirt. My settings were to use a global 50 degree support overhang threshold and 25% density, and then block off any unnecessary regions (see images). You may want to knock down support distances to 1 line width / 1 layer height to assure the arm is anchored well to the support. I used brim bed adhesion to keep the support stuck down tip the adhesion setting Brim Distance will allow you to add a gap between your 1st layer and the brim (try 1.0 mm), allowing you not have to fuss trimming away as much from the underside of the skirt.

I put mesh modifiers in two places: 1) the thumb for the outstretched arm (15mm/s perimeters) as once my nozzle knocked the small thumb from its support before it connected to the palm and 2)the pegs for the legs - a few millimeters above and below the toes where it connects with the base to print 100% solid and improve the strength for assembly.

I included in this remix the dancer in just the leotard, as well as the tutu by itself. These were both separate shells in the original.