Replacement head for X3 ARTILLERY printers.
Almost identical dimensions, no difficulty in swapping.
A high-performance hotend the HGX lite 2.00, 48gr, very light ! with large drive wheels does not crush the filaments so the flow will be constant, ideal for soft filaments such as TPU. A ratio of 9.5:1 much higher than the original extruder allows very high flow rates. The small diameter, ultra-light motor has less inertia, therefore faster.
The BAMBU LAB X1C type TZ v2.0 compatible hotend, offering a large choice of nozzles.
The body of the head to be printed preferably in ASA or reinforced nylon. Possible at PCBWAY or other 3D workshop, in resin or FDM choice if your printer does not allow it.
Possible in PETG if you limit yourself to filaments that do not require too high printing temperatures.
Avoid ABS because the shrinkage is too important.
Print with ORCA 0.4 nozzle in 0.2 thick layers, 5 walls and 8 layers above and below, 30% cubic filling. Organic tree reinforcement 45 degrees. It does not touch the bed, it is 5mm above and inclined at 45 °, printing this way avoids deformations.Observe the orientation that I used.
Make sure your printer and your reinforcements are correctly calibrated otherwise they will be very complicated to remove or even impossible especially with PETG.
In the photos (.zip file) all the necessary components which will allow you to search by image in your search engine or directly in Aliexpress.
You will have to add the heat shrinkable sheath and the necessary M3 inserts at the back. Only pre-holes are made which must be enlarged according to your inserts. I used M3x3x4.2 but you are free for the external diameter.
You need to adapt the connection with 3 JST-ZH 2P connectors, 1 JST-ZH 3P connector and 1 JST-ZH 4P connector. The length for the JST-XH 2P connector will simply have to lengthen the wiring if necessary.
I use a BX6-H4B probe more precise than the original probe, but you can use the one you have as well as the 2510 fan of your printer.
I wired the motor like this if you choose the same one as the one in the photo. I recommend a motor with connector, the others if a wire breaks at the motor, it is complicated to repair.
1B -> Blue
1A -> Red
2A -> Orange
2B -> Black
If the rotation direction is reversed you will add or remove an exclamation point in the printer.cfg for klipper as an example : (but I probably don't use the same card as you so the pin name will be different).
[extruder]
dir_pin: PD14 inversion -> dir_pin: !PD14
I added a drilled cube which allows to cut to the right size, the PTFE tube with internal diameter 2mm and external diameter 4mm which is inserted between the extruder and the hotend.
Don't forget to stick a small foam sticker on the cover to block and protect the flat cable.
For klipper, necessary to configure in printer.cfg :
[extruder]
rotation_distance: 54,098
gear_ratio: 44:10,37:17
If you do this with MARLIN I assume you know where you are
going.Without compilation I think we can act on the extrusion setting.
Be careful never stop the printer if the nozzle temperature is above 55°C for PETG or above 85°C for ASA, this could cause a deformation of the structure that holds the hotend, even if I have reinforced it.