• I Proudly present you ar15 midcap, obviously taking inspiration from pmag.
  Somehow the only proper printable midcap for ar15 and what else have you that uses these mags around here and for some time too.

It recently went though an overhaul. like now it has improved mag tooth, uses m3 screws for the halves and has more repeatability print wise with improved track.

Since the initial post many have printed this midcap and happily concluded that it functions properly. Me included.

As I initially promised I share it for free. As for the assembly, new version need 7m3 nuts, 6 m3x12 screws with flat heads and 1 m3x8 or 12 with conical head for the spring plug. You also need 0.5mm spring wire, round nose plyers. With that you will be making tosrion spring very similar to anti reversal spring, which you will also able to do once you make a couple of bb stopper tooth springs.

for the old version
6 m4 nuts and 6 m4x10 screws, you'll need round nose plyers and thin spring wire for the bb stopper torsion spring (wraps around top front screw (as with all previous designs)). .

• Material requirements.
  Unlike ak magazine this doesn't routinely being under stress, so, for the externals, pick whatever you deem suitable, Real magazines flex a bit. That said the best thing out there is ABS with correct print setting for the very simple reason that it deflects bbs fired at if from point blank with 1.44J ~ 394 fps. But if you feel like your mags aren't going to be actively shot at which is really a rare occurence use whatever you like or have a good print setting for. As to the bb track... Actually, You can use pla just as well as petg, abs has more friction to it, so it might be prone to jamming if you load more than 80bbs. Haven't tested other filament types and heard no word about using them from others yet, feel free to experiment.
  !Parts are not orientated properly usage of your common sence is advised.

A couple words for springs, yes you are expected to buy a spring.
A double stack spring to be exact Info on these was once again updated thanks to regulars in discord. You can get mapple superfeed in US and Canada, as well as kits for epm1, MW type1 in Russia (like me) and (probably, shipping exist) ex combloc countries.
There are also chinese springs you can get from, well, china.

This current version is considered to pair up with 650mm long spring, (you get the most capacity out of it, but if you stick a longer one you will get faster feeding) then it reliably holds up to 140bbs and feeds them normally.

Now let's talk about how you SHOULD print these. There is a recommended way now. It is about the track halves only though as they are understandably a critical part to proper function. If you are proficent with your slicer all you need to do really is to ensure you have 5.6mm from the bottom face of the track that touches bb on the halve to it's utmost top face. Adjusting is done via changing layer thickness.

Now for those who struggle and need better instructions.
Step one - go download prusa slicer.
Step 2 - set it up for your printer
step 3 - upload the track half into the slicer
step 4 - set first layer at 0.2mm and rest at 0.16
step 5 - right click on the part and choose height range modifier, then set it to go from 0 to 1.8mm with layer height of 0.1.
step 6 press slice and save that shit to your sd/flash drive.
I hope that was idiot proof enough.
With this you should get good transparent halves if you was going to use clear petg. That by the way is what I recommend, makes you be able to see what's going on inside, which is neat.

As for the assembly and post processing.
It's pretty straightforward but might be tedious.
Firstly file the ramps on the halves, you want them smooth. nothing else needs filing now.
You may spray a little of silicone oil on the halves. just be aware it might throw off your accuracy because oil can get it's way to your bucking.
put retension plate on one half
add 7 nuts, add 1 screw in the hole right under bb stopper tooth, wind a torsion spring, put it on, add the tooth, close the halves, screw them together. Now just put it in the shell and slide either the ranger plate or frieshly added plain back plate.
Afterwards it should work and feed bbs in your gun.

Discord for feedback and just chill place in general. https://discord.gg/DPYEGvH

For the time being I will still continue practice of designing printable midcaps.

If you appreciate my work and don't mind supporting monetarily, I'll be quite grateful, all donations will be used to purchase filament and to aid in development of things like this.
Sberbank: 5469 2900 1325 9320
Paypal: [email protected]
Supporters have a right to request reasonable customization and files without markings.