When I initially began printing Lau85's "Another dice tower", I encountered difficulties with the spiral staircase portion of the model.

I was opposed to using so much filament on support, and the design of the staircase indicated that so long as I had really good bed adhesion, that it should print successfully without supports. I decided to add a 10mm brim when I sliced the part, and it appeared to do really well as it printed, until... at just above the 80% mark, the model was knocked by the print nozzle and partially separated from the brim, allowing the mostly printed staircase to topple over.

Thinking that the problem was merely a fluke, I reprinted the staircase and had the same result. I then expanded the brim from 10mm to 30mm and enabled Z-hop. The staircase then printed and completed successfully.

I gave the first dice tower I made to a neighbor and printed it again for myself. The same model, using the same gcode files I'd sliced for the first print failed again at 80% on the staircase.

I decided to split the staircase into two separate parts. I thought that since the staircase was able to print successfully up to the 80% mark, that printing only 50% at a time would prevent the failure, and it did.

The author of "Another dice tower" mentioned splitting the staircase into 4 pieces when time permitted, which I think is a fantastic idea. Still, I thought I'd go ahead and post the two piece staircase I used for the last 3 prints I did of the tower, just in case somebody else has similar difficulties for the time being.

The split staircase consists of 3 parts, a top, a bottom, and a joiner. I did not key the top step of the bottom portion, nor the bottom step of the top portion for fitment, I instead connected the two pieces using the joiner, then turned the top piece into alignment using the backside of the staircase as a guide while gluing. It would have been easy enough to key the top and bottom parts of the staircase, but I just didn't think it necessary.

The joiner is a tiny piece for connecting the two halves of the staircase so it will print quickly. You may find it necessary to scale the joiner slightly up or down depending on the dimensional accuracy of your printer. Keep in mind that unless you have access to the 1.5 liter Dr. Pepper bottle used by the author, that you will have to scale all the parts to fit whatever bottle you use for the exterior of the tower. My first make used the 1.5 litre Smart Water bottle, and per the authors instructions, the model was scaled up by 3.5%. I've since been using the Walmart brand 1.5 litre bottles, which are slightly smaller than the Smart Water, and those work perfectly by scaling everything up by 1.5%. This remixed staircase is unscaled, so you'll want to scale it the same as would you the non-modified staircase.