Taginn-compatible 40mm Airsoft ammo for any compatible airsoft 40mm launcher.

Please read this entire page, as print settings and material choices are absolutely critical to making sure these rounds are not only accurate, but SAFE! Or at least, as safe as a 30g projectile moving at ~180fps can be.

It is critical that you not deviate from the listed materials and print settings to ensure that the rounds carry no more energy than absolutely necessary onto a target.

Three possible rounds can be made here.

A: Chalk Marker
B: "Bang" Noise Maker
C: TPU Practice Round

A - Chalk Marker Printing and Assembly
Materials Used: Normal PLA and Pre-Foamed PLA (Air PLA, LW-PLA)

This round is a snap-together construction. Print the head "Chalk Head" in pre-foamed PLA, 2 perimeters, 6 top and 4 bottom solid layers. This will ensure that the shell of the head is only 0.8mm thick and will break properly along the six preformed cuts in the face of the round. Post printing mass should be around 4.8g, and the entire object should be made of perimeter loops - no infill.

The base "Chalk Base" should be printed in normal PLA. Do not use PLA+ or any other toughened PLA, you want the base to come apart when it hits something hard. Use the settings above and 10% Gyroid or Triangular infill. This should give you a printed mass of around 10g.

Fill the capsule head with water-washable color powder, like Holi Festival color powder. Test some first to make sure it's actually water-washable! Your final weight can be anywhere from 28-30g. Real Taginn Paladin's weigh 28g, but other rounds are as heavy as 30g - your call. More chalk means a better mark!

Once to weight, snap the two halves of the round together firmly while being sure not to crush the capsule head, as they can be delicate.

B - "Bang" Noise Maker Printing & Assembly
Materials Used: Normal PLA and Pre-Foamed PLA (Air PLA, LW-PLA)

This round uses a 209 Shotshell primer as a noise source. In the USA, where I'm from, you must be 18 years of age to purchase these.

If you blow yourself up or set your house, the dog, or the neighbor's Cybertruck on fire with these, that's on you. Be safe. You assume all responsibilities for these!

This round is snap together, and consists of 3 parts. A: The head, B: Striker, and C: the Base.

The head of the round, "Bang Head", must be printed in pre-foamed PLA. Use the same settings discussed for the chalk rounds. You'll then print a striker in normal PLA and insert it into the stalk in the middle of the head, with the tapered side facing out. This will strike our primer when the capsule head collapses on impact with something hard. Printed weight will be around 7.7g.

The base is to be printed out of normal PLA, using the settings above at 55% gyroid infill. Install a 209 shotshell primer by dropping it small side first into the center hole and pushing it down till it stops on the shoulder with a wooden dowel or 1/4 drive socket with an OD suitable to fit inside the hole and only push on the outside rim of the primer - Never push on the middle! Printed weight for the striker is around 0.21g, the base about 20.1g.

The round can then be snapped together like normal. The expanding gasses are funneled first into the central expansion chamber, then out through the radial vents in the body, making a loud bang on contact with something hard. Final round weight should be between 28-30g.

C - TPU Practice Round
Materials Used: TPU

This is printed as a singular part out of TPU. Print the "Practice Round" at 3 perimeters, 6 top, 4 bottom, and 45% Gyroid infill. This should make a round about 28g. The head on these is hollow, and will squish on contact. If it tears at the tip, you can easily weld these back together gently with a soldering iron - so don't throw them out, just fix them.

Dimensional Notes:
Rifling Band Diameter: 37mm (+/-0.05mm)
Rifling Twist Rate: 380mm
Main Body Diameter: 35.7-35.8mm
Total OAL: 87.25mm
Paladin Weight: 28g
Reaper Weight: 31g

Print bases first! Check fit against a real Taginn barrel to make sure rounds load with the appropriate friction fit! Depending on your printer, you may need to scale things up or down to fit. Dimensions are given above to make sure your prints are landing where then should be to fit properly.

Update 05/19/2024:
Bang Base and Striker updated to v2. Forgot some dimensional changes before exporting. V1 Bang base has improper mounting height for the primer, and the striker is too short.

Update 05/21/2024:
Bang Head updated to v2. Forgot to re-enable the internal chamfer behind the big contact lip, as printing these upside-down (tip down) works pretty well. Without this chamfer, the lip tends to fail due to overhang. This chamfer eliminates the overhang with a 55* angle and stops the print failure.

Update 01/04/2025:
If you're having trouble pushing the heads into the bases, you might be overextruding or you've got some elephant's foot. The whole process is fairly tight, sorry. I use a rotary deburring knife to trim up the inside edge of the heads when printed opening-down - this sorts it out nicely. Here's an Amazon link: https://a.co/d/jf9EtAd