200mm minecraft chest with a latch and 3 colors printable on a 2 material machine. Depending on your buildplate size printing without a skirt or any layer adhesion method might help it fit.
I included the following printing help/instructions in a .txt for help if you archive it. Disclaimer: contents in photo not included

Printing

Print extra hot for better layer adhesion, Not a lot of infill is required as the angles are meant to be printer friendly. If you have your temp too low, or your layer height too high the layers can be brittle and a 30hr print can be useless.
Tune bridging for the 170mm bridges on all 4 sides of top and of bottom of chest. The top Model's bridging will be most visible as it is printed upside down. You can try using a support or a support model to help with the bridging but i didn't.
Allow your build plate to cool all the way down to room temp before taking off a 200x200mm square, the corners will already try to warp up, but if you don't let the plate cool the print down it will be even worse, which ruins the boxiness of the minecraft vibe.
Print the pins hollow(i recommend printing 3 in sequence so you can kill one accidentally), only the flat side will be visible and you need it to flex for assembly
If using a prime tower, I recommend putting it in near the backside of the model so any specs will be on back.
if using a prime tower and a 220mm buildplate or similar size, use a square prime tower and put the corner like 0.000001mm away from the back corner of the box, so that the skinny tower will grab a little bit to the model and not break off.
Add a pause at layer script or add it manually, to the top model, after the inside, before the latch starts.
Print with support from buildplate only on the top model but you probably want to disallow all but the latch from generating support. There is a 1 layer gap so that the center part of the lid and bottom doesn't weld itself to the build plate.
If you haven't tuned the skew of your printer the 2 sections might not quite align.

Assembly

Clean up any support material on the pins, only the flat side will be visible and the tolerances are picky on purpose.
Place the 2 pieces of box together in the closed position.
Put the box on its side.
Because you printed the pins hollow, use a heatgun or a hairdryer to warm 1 pin up until its a bit malleable, the pin doesn't fit through the hole so it needs to be hot in order to flex into the slot, you only have a little bit of time because hollow pieces can cool very fast, push the pin into the slot careful to not squeeze it too tight. if the pin isn't going in, it needs to be warmer/softer. It can take a couple of trys, don't get frustrated as the pins print fast and only 1 flat side will be visible.
Ensure the box opens and closes.
If the bridging did poorly clean it up with blade or heatgun or hairdryer or 3dpen
Print more minecraft stuff to put in it. Obviously Sheesh

It is Easy to add a Name since there is a 1 layer gap between "bottom layer" and the top of the chest, but you have to get the pause command right as(for black), because as soon as layer1 extruder2 is done it will go to layer2 extruder2, without primtower-ing. I used font IMPACT with additional character spacing.